Sicilian Sojourn
Flying home from the island of Sicily I watched “The Godfather” for the first time. When it came out in 1972, I was too young to see it, but as if it were a legend, even having not seen it I had heard about many of its famous scenes; horseback riding anyone? After two weeks in Sicily the film, though fifty years old, seemed as timeless as the land that we had just visited. The sun burned hills, death notices plastered to homes, and ancient hill towns portrayed in the movie remain the same. And, this somehow defines Sicily: unchanging, harsh and oddly beguiling.
Visiting the Mediterranean in the summer is not something we could normally do, but when Mark's nephew wrote to us saying that he had rented a large villa at the famous Rocco Forte Verdura resort on the southern coast and wondered if we’d like to join them, we jumped at the chance. We didn’t regret it! For planning our trip we were assisted by Meg Whelan of CONNOISSEUR TRAVEL, who helped us identify some of the best places to visit on the island.
We weren’t the first to dream of a visit to Sicily, Greeks, Phonecians, Romans, Arabs, Normans and many others have made their way here and left a rich cultural melange that still defines the island's makeup. Who can blame anyone for wanting to visit (and perhaps stay and control) such a beautiful island? The coastline, though scarred at times by ugly modern development, is on the whole rural and dramatic. Nestled amongst this landscape are countless ruins, including some of the best preserved Greek and Roman ruins in the world. Dotted about the island are more UNESCO World Heritage sites than one can shake a stick at. There are sexy towns like Taormina that became famous as a stop on the Grand Tour, the stunning Baroque town of Noto and the incredibly charming Medieval town of Ragusa to name just a few. Towering above much of the island is the massive active volcano of Etna that lends a certain level of edginess to the place but also gives the gift of great soil and therefore some really terrific wines.
The elephant on the island still is, no doubt, the Mafia. Knowledgeable friends believe that the organization’s overall control of mega corruption has diminished, but it has a hand (or should we say needle in) virtually every business on the island. In Sciacca we were shown central hotels, civic centers and gorgeous thermal baths that have been “mysteriously” closed for decades. Around the island we frequently saw freeways that had been closed for years and on ramps to nowhere. Sad as this is, it has little impact on visitors such as ourselves, and as the mob's grip slowly loosens there is an evident firmament of renewed prosperity.
GETTING THERE, BACK AND AROUND THE ISLAND
We booked through Lufthansa, a Swiss Air flight which originated in Boston, had a layover in Zurich and flew on to Palermo. From there, we had a hotel car pick us up and drive us an hour and a half to the Verdura on the southern coast. After our six nights at this lovely resort we had the Sixt Car rental folks drop a Fiat Panda off at the hotel which we drove all over the island. Driving on the island is fairly easy as most of the roads are pretty good. We purchased an actual map of the island prior to our visit which definitely helped us in getting our bearings. We also found that GPS, with a few exceptions, worked very well in Sicily and was a big help in the crowded winding roads. There are some excellent Auto Stradas and some of those are toll roads. Tolls are paid in cash at the terminus of the toll road. gas stations are everywhere and most of the larger ones have full service attendants which makes filling up a lot easier! One thing to bear in mind is that a car like a Fiat Panda, while perfectly sized for tiny hilltop towns, comes with a manual transmission. So if you can’t drive a manual vehicle be sure to request an automatic. When you drop the car off at the airport the agency may not have an attendant, but there are key drop boxes located at the offices. One last note about rental cars, when we valet parked our car at the Locanda Don Serafino in Ragusa the air conditioning was working and when we left it didn’t. When we told our local friends, they laughed and said, “welcome to Sicily!”
Although the “New York Times” recently had an article on riding the Sicilian rails, we definitely wouldn’t recommend this mode of transportation. Most of the rail systems appear to be pretty derelict unlike most of Europe. Our advice if you want to see the island is rent a car and learn to drive like the locals.
OUR TWO WEEKS IN SICILY
NIGHTS ONE THROUGH SIX VERDURA
We stayed for our first week ensconced at the ROCCO FORTE VERDURA resort in spectacular villa number one. Surrounded by approximately 150 acres of rolling hills, golf course, a river and a rocky beach this five star resort is an oasis of laid back luxury. Our pad was separate from the rest of the villa that included a private pool and was essentially a sleek modern home. There are four restaurants at the resort, a huge pool, a kid’s camp, a great fitness area, great golfing of course, tennis courts and basketball courts, outdoor fitness areas and a gorgeous spa. The service here is gracious and attentive. Over the week we enjoyed our private cabana on the beach, cocktails on the veranda and the excellent food at the resort. And as a base camp for excursions it was perfect.
EXCURSIONS AND RESTAURANTS
After a relaxing day at the resort jumping in the ocean and lounging by the pool, we were ready for some adventure. Happily there is no dearth of things to do and see on this island! We hired a car and driver to take us an hour and a half east to VALLE DEI TEMPLE just south of the modern city of AGRIGENTO. This is one of the most impressive collections of Ancient Greek buildings anywhere. The Greek poet Pindar described it as“the fairest city inhabited by mortals”. And in 1997 it became a UNESCO World Heritage site. Our amazing guide Lorenzo, met us and took us first to a small lush gorge below the magnificent temples where we had a lunch, prepared directly from the land about us. After this charming repast, Lorenzo managed to take us through the vast site, entertaining both the youngsters with us while giving us a fascinating introduction to the fabled city.
When you are surrounded by the beautiful Mediterranean, a chance to be out on the waves certainly beckons. So, when Mark’s nephew said he had arranged for a yacht to take us out for the day we were thrilled. Our lavish yacht and crew were provided by MIKASA LUXURY YACHTS. A car and driver picked us up at the hotel and took us to the working fishing harbor of SCIACCA where we were greeted by our very handsome and professional crew of three. All day we glided along the southern coast, dropping anchor to swim in the crystal clear waters.
After a day on the waves we returned to SCIACCA where we had the best lemon granita and brioche at the BAR ROMA. The owner of this famous old establishment Aurelio and his wife were on hand to greet us. Aurelio is a Maestro of granita, and although they also serve strawberry granita, the speciality is lemon. Not much else is served but espresso. We left happy and refreshed
The next night we had the quintessential Sicilian dinner in the hilltop town of CALTABELLOTTA at the rustic MATES RESTAURANT, In the very personal way, the entire family is involved in the preparation and serving of the degustacion menu which includes a vast selection of antipasti, followed by pasta and risotto, then beautifully roasted and braised meats and then traditional desserts of the island. This is the food of the old Sicilian nobility, expertly prepared and lovingly served. Quite frankly this is the sort of experience that most of us picture when we visit Italy but rarely get.
On one lovely evening we returned to SCIACCA, where we had dinner overlooking the working harbor on the lovely terrace of RISTORANTE PORTO SAN PAOLO. When in Sciacca, one is pretty much obligated to have seafood and here we started with a platter of raw items, progressed to Linguini Aglio Nero, then grilled tuna and then a duo of Mache and arugula with shaved local cheese. All this was perfectly complemented by the local white made with Grillo grapes.
DAYS SEVEN AND EIGHT TAORMINA
On our seventh day in Sicily we said goodbye sadly to Mark’s Nephew and his family, jumped into our Panda and drove across the smoky hot island. The air here is sadly compromised on much of the island as the farmers constantly burn the chaff off the fields. But as we crossed the island, despite the smog, the magnificent Mt. ETNA finally came into view, after an hour and a half. After snaking along many a curvy road we emerged at the breathtakingly beautiful town of TAORMINA. This is Sicily’s most famous tourist resort. In contrast to the burnt hills of much of the island this town is surrounded by luxuriant vegetation. No wonder it was a favorite stop on The Grand Tour and a place frequented by aristocrats like Wilhelmina II of Germany and the Rothschilds. Today with its film festival, which was in full swing while we were there, it is still a stop for A-listers.
The town layout is Medieval with the pedestrian shopping street of Corso Umberto running from the two ancient gates of the city. Along this avenue one finds a plethora of upscale stores, bars and cozy cafes. At the end of the Corso is the spectacular GREEK THEATER, which is one of the most famous of Sicily's monuments, and rightfully so for its setting alone, looking out over the bay below. It was begun in the 3rd century BC and re-built by the Romans in the 2nd century AD and is well worth a visit today.
WE STAYED AT
THE HOTEL VILLA BELVEDERE
Opened in 1902, this boutique hotel has an enviable site overlooking the stunning bay below. The public rooms are charming and there is a small pool on the property. Unfortunately for us, our room was in the modern annex across the road, where our modernist apartment looked at a rock wall. We asked to move (and would have been happy to pay a higher tariff) seeing that they had plenty of availability, on line for rooms in the old section on their website as well as booking.com. Our request was denied, and we were told they did not have any other rooms. So quite frankly, we cannot recommend this establishment.
Happily there are plenty of other outstanding hotels in the city. The VILLA DUCALE and The VILLA CARLOTTA, are both part of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World and were created by the same family that owns the Q92 in Noto. Both hotels have spectacular views and beautifully appointed rooms. Without a doubt these are two of the chicest options in town. For a more grand style of lodging there are two elegant BELMOND hotels, GRAND HOTEL TIMEO, just adjacent to the Greek Theater and VILLA SANT’ANDREA on the sea. There is also a new FOUR SEASONS with an enviable location and gorgeous rooms.
WE ATE AT
Near the center of this wonderfully walkable town is the tiny Michelin starred ANDREAS RESTAURANT, which specializes in upscale interpretations of traditional Sicilian cuisine. We sat on the charming small patio just off the sidewalk. Watching the parade of visitors and locals was alone worth the visit. We started with a cold tomato soup followed by chilled beef and tuna sauce, then of course we had to indulge in the summer truffles on pasta. For entrees we returned to the sea with great tuna and white fish dishes. A perfect pairing for this evening was an ice cold bottle of Benati, Etna Bianco.
I GIARDINI DI BABILONIA is definitely one of the places to see and be seen in Taormina especially during the film festival. Set in a garden plaza, flanked at one end by a gorgeous open kitchen, this restaurant is the perfect place to watch the air kiss and nighttime sunglass wearing crowd. The service is pleasant, if a bit scattered and the food does not break any culinary ground, but the “floor show” and setting make up for it. We had a great bottle of sparkling wine from Etna, a rich pasta with pistachios and a fish grilled and served table side.
In a land of great winemakers, COTTANERA WINERY is definitely a star. Set on the foothills of the towering Mt. Etna, this beautiful modern winery is well worth a stop not just for its wines, but for the delicious luncheon one can have while gazing out the picture windows onto the vineyards. Along with an outstanding flight of wines we were served a varied antipasti of local specialties, followed by a simple pasta with garden vegetables, followed by lemon ice. All were perfect on a hot summer day. As we were leaving we ran into a party of guests from the U.S. who had been to some of our restaurants; even in rural Sicily the world is small!
MT. ETNA
No visit to Taormina would be complete without a visit to the magnificent active Volcano of Mt. Etna. Our friend Gary Portuesi of AUTHENTIC ITALY, the top travel professionals for Sicily, was kind enough to arrange a day trip with ETNA ALCANTARA to explore the fascinating mountain. Our great guide, Alexandro picked us up in his SUV and introduced us to the history, vegetation, solidified lava rivers, tunnels and topography of the Volcano. Alexandro made us feel like friends and honored guests at the same time and we never felt like we were being “handled” as can be the case with some guides.
LGBTQ+ TAORMINA
Taormina has a long history as a destination for the glitterati of the LGBTQ+ community. Its most famous resident is perhaps the German Baron Wilhelm Von Gloeden whose startling photos were partially destroyed by the Fascists in the thirties and are now coveted by collectors and museums around the world. Great figures in art and literature, including DH Lawrence (who checked into the Hotel Timeo and didn’t leave for four years) Tennessee Williams and Truman Capote all fell in love with the town and perhaps its young gentlemen. Oddly enough, despite this history and despite the fact that there are plenty of queer folks around, there are no exclusively gay clubs here. SHATULLE, is arguably one of the towns more gay friendly venues. It has a pleasant patio and serves upscale cocktails to a young well heeled crowd.
DAYS SEVEN AND EIGHT NOTO
Leaving Taormina we made the easy two hour trip south west in our powerful Panda to the stunning hilltop town of Noto. In 1693 this ancient city was destroyed completely by an earthquake and subsequently rebuilt in the grand, over the top Baroque style. The result is a marvelous, unified style and grid layout that one doesn’t find in many other towns anywhere. NOTO is not as glitzy by far as Taormina but there is a frizon of trendiness with cool bars, boutique hotels and beautiful small shops opening up around the city. The vibe as well seems more playful and fun as well as less overwhelmed than Taormina. In addition this is a great city to walk as the grid layout and the magnificent vistas makes it easy to get one’s bearings.
WE STAYED AT THE NOTO HOTEL Q92
This is an exceptional property. The ownership recently opened the stunningly renovated palazzo and employed the best Florentine designers to decorate its sumptuous rooms and suites. The people running the property, including the co-owner, Giulia are warm and welcoming. The result one feels as if one is ensconced at an aristocratic friend's palazzo in Noto, and indeed in many ways you are!
WE ATE AT
RISTORANTE CROCIFISSO created by Chef Marco Baglieri and set in a quiet upper street of Noto, was one of the most outstanding food experiences we had in Sicily. The focus here is on the food. The rooms are austere bordering on boring although the kitchen glimpsed through a glass door does add some energy to the space. But one soon forgets the coldness of the setting as the professional gracious service embraces you and then the highly technical but still deeply satisfying food begins to come to the table. For our second course, Chef Baglieri kindly introduced himself and welcomed us, also a surprisingly refreshing gesture in our modern sleek world. Three, five and seven course degustation menus, as well as an ala carte menu are offered here. We opted for the five course menu which clearly demonstrated the kitchen's virtuosity and was simply delicious as well: something one rarely encounters. The young sommelier with his lack of attitude about fermented grape juice was also a nice breath of fresh air. So, when in Noto, go to Crocifisso!
On our second night in Noto we ate at VICARI, situated in the charming alley next to Q92. This famed restaurant is the creation of Chef Salvatore Vicari. The food is his refined take on Sicilian cooking. The tasting menu was nicely paired with a selection of local wines. Our service was pleasant and well paced.
Okay, it was hot in Noto while we were there and nothing felt more relaxing and refreshing than our three flavors of gelato and perfect espressos, served on a quiet sidewalk by the folks at CAFE COSTANZO. This establishment has been around for over fifty years, and one can see why, it’s top quality all the way!
A DAY AT THE BEACH
When the temperature is topping out over a hundred degrees, one can only do so much ogling of Baroque churches and quaint stone towns. Giulia the charming co-owner of our hotel had the perfect solution; jump in your car and in ten minutes you can be at The NOTO BEACH CLUB, and boy was she right. This newly established place was indeed a short drive away and for a reasonable price beach loungers, umbrellas, ice water and cooling treats were all provided to us by a friendly staff. The beach was sandy too which was a pleasant change on this rocky coastline. For lunch we strolled to their open air cafe and dined on delicious and plentiful salads. In short, this was the perfect antidote for too much sightseeing.
LGBTQ+ NOTO
It was refreshing to walk the streets of Noto and see a number of Rainbow flags proudly displayed above businesses and homes. ANCHE GLI ANGELI, just one half block from the Q92, is a very stylish, very gay friendly restaurant/cocktail bar/bookstore/nightclub. We thought it was the perfect place to start the evening with a great Negroni or one of their own creative cocktail creations. Over one block and up one block on one of Noto’s most trendy streets is the SPEAKEASY CULTURE BEER AND FOOD. It too, proudly flies the gay flag by its doors. The people here are affable and it’s a fun venue to have a beer seated on the pretty street.
DAY NINE AND TEN, RAGUSA
After sadly saying goodbye to the folks at Q92 we made our way to what is arguably the most dramatic of the area's UNESCO world Heritage towns. One's first glimpse of the old part of Ragus, or Ragusa Ibla, from the “Nuevo” Ragusa, a hill over, is a truly stunning site. With its spectacular baroque churches crowning the narrow hilltop, Hollywood could not have created a more quintessential Sicilian town. The two towns with their winding, narrow and incredibly romantic streets are both worth walking and the history of both is fascinating. The “new” side of town was built by the landed gentry after the earthquake of 1693 destabilized society allowing them to free themselves from the old aristocracy which remained stubbornly behind in Ibla. Forever after, the two towns built to rival each other in all things from churches to Palazzos. Most of the visitors here appear to be Italian but amusingly enough we were stopped on the street by a family from Indiana who loved us in our competition on “Top Chef Masters”; again it seems we live in a small world!
WE STAYED AT THE
LOCANDA DON SERAFINO
At the Relais & Chateau property Locanda Don Serafino, set on a miniscule medieval lane near the center of Ragusa Ibla, we were met by Giuseppe, one of the charming managers of this unique establishment. Since we were quite early arriving, our room was not ready but Giuseppe still made us feel very welcome, offering us drinks and recommending a great traditional trattoria for lunch a short walk away. Upon our return we were shown to our very romantic two story room with a view overlooking the town and the valley below complete with a vast soaking tub surrounded by candles. Since this is an ancient city cut out of rock, the rooms are compact, but beautifully thought out and nicely decorated.
WE ATE AT
LA BETTOLA is a family run affair a block from the central square of Ragusa Ibla. Since it was blistering hot, we sat in the shade on the pretty patio in front of the restaurant. The kitchen describes itself as serving from a “cucina sincera” and indeed it is. The small menu of the day is written on a chalkboard. We opted not to have the slowly braised pork sadly as it was just too hot and instead to eat all of the antipasti offerings thinking this would be a light snack. Well the copious amounts of unique Sicilian snacks added up to a big lunch, but we couldn’t complain, they were all delicious.
Having eaten multiple courses of refined and elegant food for the past few nights we found ourselves craving something a bit simpler and I BANCHI seemed to offer an interesting alternative to these temples of gastronomy. I Banchi is the more casual restaurant created by Chef Ciccio Sultano, the owner of IL DUOMO, which with its Michelin stars is considered by some to be one of the finest restaurants in Sicily. I BANCHI has a very pretty interior and a nice sidewalk seating area as well. It is also a bit of a bakery/bar/and comestibles shop. We started with the slowly poached egg and moved on to a more gussied up rendition of the veal with tuna sauce, followed by octopus in a milky sauce and then a perfectly braised pork neck. All of this was washed down by the best local wine. The service here is a bit odd with one waiter abruptly coming to our table demanding our order after we had already placed it with our waitress. The same gentleman curtly informed us to pay at the counter when we asked for the check. Paying at the counter seems at best an odd affectation for a restaurant of this level, but then maybe it’s supposed to seem clever.
For another attempt at a light lunch the next day we ate at a tiny and intimate wine and cheese shop called SAPORI SICILIA. We were served a marvelous selection of local cheeses and the best summer tomatoes by a sweet young lady and the proprietress of the establishment. This simple repast was quite frankly some of the most satisfying food we had on our trip.
On our second night in Ragusa, we returned to elegant tasting menus at the Michelin starred Relais & Chateaux LOCANDA DON SERAFINO RISTORANTE ENOTECA. The restaurant is built into the caves of the city. Upon entering there is a prominent bar and lounge and the linen draped tables are accompanied by lucite chairs. We had asked to come at a later time than our original 8:00 reservation but our request was denied. The restaurant appeared pleasantly quiet and we were seated in a large empty room with one other party of two. After having a glass of the local sparkling wine I decided to order a Negroni before starting our dinner. We did this as a bit of an impish test for the stuffy sommelier. As predicted, he looked at us as if we had just emerged from a page out of Mark Twain’s “American Vandals”: his horror was almost comical. Happily, the obliging Captain overheard our exchange and immediately said that we could have what we wanted. After this unpleasantness, the dinner began with a flourish of three amuse bouche that were all tasty and pretty, followed by a triangle of raw seafood under an unappealing glutinous cloak, a hot beef dish followed oddly and then we were served a delicious perfectly prepared risotto.
Braised pork came next and then to cleanse the palate a symbiosis of carrots and passion fruit arrived that was delightful. A dessert again cloaked in another Agar glutinous substance arrived and then of course the obligatory petit fours.
DAYS ELEVEN AND TWELVE
CASTELLAMMARE DEL GOLFO
The valet at the Locanda Don Serafino, brought us our car for our departure at 9:00. We thought it odd, that unlike most valets would do, he had not put the air conditioning on considering it was such a hot day. But, we didn’t think much of it until we realized the car’s a.c.which was working perfectly when we arrived at the Locanda and placed our vehicle in their care, no longer worked. Quite mysterious, but not; and as our friends said, “welcome to Sicily”.
So, we made our way across the island in a blistering heat joking it was like the old days when the only air conditioning our parents had was a 4-65, four windows down and sixty five miles an hour! Much of the southern coast of Sicily will never be highlighted in the guidebooks as it is ravaged by a tangle of ugly post war development, with ugly sprawl not unlike anywhere else in the world. But after we started to head north the roads improved and the country became prettier and prettier.
Our destination was the town of Castellammare Del Golfo, where our friends Gary Portuesi, owner of AUTHENTIC ITALY, the premier travel professionals for Sicily and his husband Sal Rizzo of DE GUSTIBUS COOKING SCHOOL MACYS NYC, had invited us to stay at there beautiful home looking out at the ocean. Gary’s mother had prepared a fantastic vegetarian luncheon which we ate over several hours on their gorgeous terrace.
After lunch, the ever gracious host Sal, took us to the nearby village SCOPELLO which is charming and again right out of the movies. The beautiful coastline here is what we all think of when we dream of visiting Sicily. For dinner that night we went to the actual town of Castellammare del Golfo which is bubbling over with new energy along its pedestrian-only central avenue. Gary and Sal and a group of friends took us to their favorite cocktail bar CUCINA ENOTECA, where we enjoyed perfect Negronis and beautifully mixed gin and tonics. Following this we walked to the tiny cove overlooking the beach where we had dinner at Ristorante-Pizzeria La Timpa. Here we gorged ourselves on octopus and a vast platter of grilled fish, delicious mussels and salad. We enjoyed the company and the delicious sparkling wine of the area.
Sadly all great trips must end. We took our little Panda back to the rental car return at Palermo’s airport and had a long but uneventful trip home! We will have good memories of Sicily and if we were to return we would do it in the spring or the fall to avoid the heat and the smoke. But then, of course, if someone were to “make us an offer we couldn’t refuse”, we’d go back anytime!