Low and Slow Across America With a 60 Pound Husky
Avi, our 60 Lb Husky with Clark ready to roll in the car!
GOING LOW AND SLOW
Many of us have crossed our great nation by automobile in our youth. Most of us had limited time and resources for these journeys. I’ve crossed the country more than once in long bouts of “white line fever”, and I’m here to report it’s not much fun. In fact, it pretty much ended our interest in long car trips. But there is nothing like time to make one forget the pain of this kind of travel. Actually, we started thinking about what we didn’t like about these trips and what we did, and it pretty much boiled down to one thing; not rushing! We had the time to take a trip across America “low and slow”. To this end we vowed to limit our driving time, with few exceptions, to seven hours or less, and spend at least two nights or more in each destination.
BRINGING FIDO
We also planned to take our sixty pound Husky along for the ride and this added new complications! Some hotels are “pet friendly” until you read the fine print and others just don’t allow pets. We Found that the apps, Bring Fido and Rover were both helpful and a good place to start our searches across America for accommodations. This way you don’t get your heart set on that super cool boutique hotel in just the right place, only to find that it doesn’t take big dogs. After narrowing our search, we frequently contacted the hotel directly to let them know we were arriving with our boy, Avi!
HELPFUL THINGS TO BRING
A Gazetteer, old fashioned as it is, is a great help. You just can’t see the lay of the land with a phone. Apps like Google Maps, Waze and Apple Maps can be helpful and they can also lead you astray and drive you crazy!
A roll of paper towels and Windex are great for keeping at least the windshield of the car clear. Stopping every so often to get your car washed also makes the trip more fun.
A good thermos and real cups. Good coffee from that great coffee shop you discovered in the last city you stayed will allow you to pass on Dunkin and other horror shows on the road.
We call it “The Trough”, either a cooler or a backpack for snacks. This is a lifesaver when you can’t find a decent place to eat.
FOR HELPFUL HINTS ON TRAVELING WITH A DOG, SEE OUR BLOG: Five Tips for Traveling with Fido!; it’s chock full of helpful pointers.
FROM OGUNQUIT MAINE TO CARMEL CALIFORNIA
DAY ONE: OGUNQUIT MAINE TO HARRISBURG PENNSYLVANIA
We left the seaside town of Ogunquit the night after a big snow storm and headed south west on 95 to 495 and then went south at the armpit town of Binghamton on 81 which took us straight south to Harrisburg. There was nothing terribly special about this leg of the trip, at this part of the year, so we made this one of our longer driving days. Harrisburg’s center is pretty much hallowed out but there is a pretty park around the capital, the River view is cool and there are some decent restaurants.
WE STAYED AT THE HILTON HARRISBURG
Mark and Avi at the Hilton Harrisburg Bar.
We’ve stayed at this nicely remodeled high rise overlooking the River several times and always liked it. The rooms are comfortable and roomy, and there is a great gym and indoor pool for relaxing after a long drive. The bar here where Avi was quite the hit, is beautiful and the restaurant is one of the better in town. The staff here is very friendly, outgoing and efficient.
WE ATE AT BACO
Right across the street from the Hilton is this great casual pizza and wine bar in an old bank building. It’s a great place to sit at the actual bar and order from the extensive wines by the glass list. The appetizers are fun, the pizza is delicious and the service, though “rough and ready”, is very friendly. We were also impressed that the owner was at the door to greet us and to chat amiably when we left.
DAY TWO: HARRISBURG PENNSYLVANIA TO COLUMBUS OHIO
Day 2 and Avi is already a star! Welcome to Columbus, Avi.
This leg of the trip was an easy six hour, straight shot on 70. The scenery is actually pretty interesting on this drive, as you pass through old river towns and beautiful mountains. Right now there is a lot of construction on the highways in this area, which they desperately need. Happily this didn’t slow us down too much!
WE STAYED AT BIG RED’S LODGES
In Columbus, this dog friendly place is a real hidden gem. Tucked behind some large hospitals on some lovely parkland, Big Red’s is made up of a number of small cabins built in the Craftsman style. Each cabin has a living room complete with a fireplace and a kitchen. Within an easy walk guests have access to a giant fitness center and it’s a short drive to Short North Arts District and downtown.
WE ATE AT NORTHSTAR CAFE AND BRASSICA
These places are two of our favorites in this foodie town. Brassica is an order at the counter Middle Eastern place. The food is outstanding and the place is trendy and fun. For dinner, we keep returning to Northstar Cafe. Oddly enough this is another order at the counter place, but don’t let this deter you. The American food is outstanding, the place has a hip vibe and the service after you make your initial order is friendly and attentive.
FOR MORE ON COLUMBUS CHECK OUT OUR, BLOG:
Columbus Is Hot!
DAY FIVE: COLUMBUS OHIO TO NASHVILLE TENNESSEE
From Columbus we took the real plunge south on 71 to Cincinnati and then 65 south to the epicenter of “country”. This was an easy drive mainly through pretty countryside.
WE STAYED AT THE KIMPTON AERTSON NASHVILLE
Kimpton is remarkably pet friendly and the brand has a fairly decent upscale feeling. The cute valets on our arrival were certainly happy to see our Husky bound out of the car even if I wasn’t too thrilled to leave my keys in the unattended car! The hotel is in midtown a bit out of the tourist gulch but pretty much in the center of things with easy access to restaurants, clubs and sites. The rooms here are modish if a bit stripped down and cold. Even though the weather was in the eighties, the rooftop pool was closed. We were at least able to disregard the closed signs and sit next to it in the sun each afternoon. We had indifferent disappointing massages at the spa connected to the hotel one day, which was an obvious mistake. On the up side the staff was very friendly and the in house restaurant served a terrific breakfast and packed a dandy lunch for the next leg of our trip.
WE ATE AT THE HENLEY, VELVET TACO AND HELEN’S HOT CHICKEN
For an upscale experience in Nashville, Henley really is tip top. The dining room has a sociable square bar in its center where you’ll rub elbows with lots of locals and the decor is trendy but comfortable. The food, obviously prepared with detailed attention and real creativity knocks it out of the park. For lunch we noshed outdoors at the Velvet Taco. For a small chain, the staff here seems to take a lot of pride in what they do. We had out of the normal tacos prepared with pride and served with some real southern charm. And talk about charm, the owners of Helen’s Hot Chicken, which is a true dive, couldn’t have more of it. Oh, and the chicken is out of control scrumdelicious!
DAY SEVEN: NASHVILLE TENNESSEE TO MEMPHIS TENNESSEE
From Nashville to Memphis it’s an easy four hour drive (well except for the millions of trucks) to Memphis.
WE STAYED WITH FRIENDS BUT RECOMMEND THE PEABODY HOTEL
The Peabody is one of America’s and the south’s Grand Dame hotels. Although the original hotel was opened in 1869, the current opulent structure was built in 1925 and ever since it has been meticulously maintained. But this place is not just elegant comfortable rooms and all of the five star services and amenities one expects in such an establishment, no, it’s the ducks! Every day since the 1930’s a gaggle of ducks is delivered to the fountain in the center of the spectacular lobby and paraded for young and old to delight in. Now, tell us where else are you going to see a bunch of ducks patrolling through the lobby of a fine, historic hotel?
WE ATE AT CHARLES VERGOS RENDEZVOUS CHARCOAL RIBS, SOUTHERN SOCIAL, COASTAL FISH COMPANY AND ERLING JENSEN’S
We were lucky enough to have friends who were close to the folks at Rendezvous. This legendary place, across a street and down an alley from the Peabody Hotel, has been serving their famed dry rub ribs in a basement here for over 70 years. Although they were not open when we could stop by, they opened for our friends and us and we were treated to a fantastic repast of their amazing ribs. Don’t miss this place; Lady Di’s boys loved it too!
For an upscale take on southern cooking, a visit to Southern Social is fun. The dining rooms are swanky and the bar is deluxe. The food was nicely prepared but our service, though very warm and friendly, was slow, and suffered from multiple gaffes such as forgetting what we ordered for drinks.
Memphis has made a terrific effort to create green belts and riding/walking trails throughout the city and Coastal Fish Company is set on the outskirts of town, overlooking hundreds of acres of lake and preserved parkland. The Building itself is cool and modern, there is a huge outdoor deck overlooking the lake, the service is professional and friendly and the food, though no triumph is fine for lunch.
Erling Jensen’s, as the name suggests is a Chef owned Chef driven restaurant and a popular favorite in Memphis. We have eaten here twice and each time we have enjoyed the well appointed dining rooms decorated with good art. The service is attentive and knowledgeable. The menu is well thought out, has a real sense of place and in our minds, happily emphasizes salads and vegetables as well as heartier entrees.
DAY TEN: MEMPHIS TENNESSEE TO NEW ORLEANS LOUISIANA
It’s a straight six hour trip south, and very pretty drive through rolling countryside, on 55 from Memphis to the Big Easy.
WE STAYED BRIEFLY AT THE KIMPTON, CHECKED OUT AND MOVED TO THE RITZ
When you travel with a dog, your choices get limited fast. For this reason we had booked again at the Kimpton property in New Orleans. Unfortunately this was a mistake. Check in was chaotic and when we got to our first room it was dismal and dark with a view of the parking garage. We asked for a better room and we were politely and promptly moved to a better room on a high floor. Sadly the view was obstructed by what appeared to be green mold. The cheaply furnished room was beat and the carpet dirty. We had booked for three days but decided to cut our losses and move. We called a local kennel, and dropped off the boy. Then we booked at the Ritz (which does not take large dogs) where we had stayed in the past.
The Ritz is in the perfect location on the edge of the quarter. We recommend booking a club access courtyard room. The club is comfortable, there is free flowing champagne, and pretty good snacks and breakfast. The courtyard is beautiful and the rooms are quiet and sumptuous. There is a huge state of the art gym here which we enjoyed to the fullest and a luxurious spa. The concierge staff here was helpful with lots of insider hints too. We highly recommend a stay here!
WE ATE AT THE CHANDELIER BAR, COMPERE LAPIN, PÊCHE AND LE CHAT NOIR
A great way to start a luxe evening in this town is a stop at the Four Seasons Chandelier Bar. The sexy elliptical bar is set under a magnificent, towering chandelier, oddly enough. Start with a Sazerac and the caviar service and sit back to watch the carriage trade mingle. People are interesting and friendly here and it’s easy to meet some of the high class locals here.
Chef Nina Compton has created an interesting hotspot at Compere Lapin. The decor is a bit dark and rough for our taste, but our server was friendly (if harassed) and the food was delicious and interesting.
Peche, whose chef, Ryan Prewitt won The James Beard Award for Best Chef in the South in 2014, is just hands down a great experience. The bar is bustling and the people are attractive and interesting. The menu is very creative and simply delicious. Our waiter was personable and the dining room crackled with energy. This is a great place to eat!
Le Chat Noir is the new creation of Seth Templton. The dining room is sleek yet comfortable and the menu with its emphasis on local vegetables is very well executed. There are issues with the front of the house but this place is still a baby.
FOR MORE ON NEW ORLEANS SEE OUR BLOG:
New Orleans: Easy In The Big Easy
DAY THIRTEEN: NEW ORLEANS LOUISIANA TO HOUSTON TEXAS
2 Hot Chefs
We took local road 90 and then 10 to Houston, stopping to visit the Tabasco factory headquarters along the way. This meandering path made this one of our longer eight hour days, but the Tabasco plant was worth seeing and the countryside was pretty once we got out of Chemical Alley!
WE STAYED AT THE ALOFT GALLERIA
The Aloft chain is dog friendly, and in the past we have always found them to be serviceable, reliable places for a pit stop on a journey. Sadly this Aloft we cannot recommend. Though it is laid out in the usual cookie cutter fashion, the rooms were dirty and the common areas were strewn in the morning with last night's drinks. The strange and surely bartender didn’t have any food to offer except chips (something Aloft bars always have). It’s clear the ownership here has dropped the ball as has the operators. I guess it was day thirteen!
WE ATE AT THE WEST END A PUBLIC HOUSE
Thankfully we were able to cross the street from our dismal digs and have a pretty fun time at The West End. This place is almost all outdoors, there is live music and you order your food at the grill. We hit the place on steak night and they were cheap and delicious as were the tacos! The “hoochy” mamma bartendresses and the guapo servers were all great. Thank goodness for this place; it salvaged the night.
DAY FOURTEEN: HOUSTON TEXAS TO SAN ANTONIO TEXAS
After our depressing stop in Houston we couldn’t wait to get out of town. This of course is easier said than done in Houston as the grim sprawl of the megalopolis sprawls outward for almost fifty miles. It’s Ugliness reminded us of the outskirts of Bangkok or Shanghai; shame on rich America for letting this happen to our beautiful land. At least it was a fairly short trip of four hours to San Antonio on 10.
WE STAYED AT THE THOMPSON RIVERWALK
Our stay at the Thompson Riverwalk was the best overall hotel experience on our trip. From the moment we arrived and were greeted by the super personable valets, at this sleek high rise at the most perfect location along The Riverwalk, we knew we were in for an elevated couple of nights. The rooms here are hip and beautifully decorated, the restaurant is outstanding, the gym is well appointed, the private rooftop pool is a great place to relax and the rooftop bar is the best bar in town! What more could one want? The people! From the desk staff to the concierge, to the servers at breakfast who went the extra mile consistently, to the cordial bartenders ( what, they weren’t too cool for school?), the staff was just top of the heap. A stay here will make your stay in this beautiful historical city.
WE ATE AT: LANDRACE, LA GLORIA PEARL AND BRASSERIE, AND BRASSERIE MON CHOU CHOU
Landrace is the newest restaurant of local Chef and James Beard semi finalist Steve McHugh. The sleek and modern decor while a bit corporate is comfortable and the roving cocktail cart, long bar and open kitchen give it life. The food here is of the place and well executed and the waitstaff is charming and efficient.
La Gloria Pearl, oddly enough set on the river bank in the Pearl District, has a lively outdoor setting and terrific Mexican street food selected from most of the states of Mexico by local celebrity Chef Johnny Hernandez. Our dog was welcome, the service was helpful, sweet and friendly. The crowd seemed to be mainly happy locals enjoying a fun night out.
Brasserie Mon Chou Chou was recommended as the talk of the town. Perhaps locals are just up to their ears with Tex Mex and desperate for something different. The restaurant provides a pretty standard French bistro menu. There is a roving Raclette cheese cart that would be a fun twist on the usual if it didn’t stink so much; and this from someone who loves cheese. Oddly this is one of those restaurants that, while the decor is okay, seems to only have uncomfortable tables. Our food was slammed at us. Our waiter even brought us our entrees before we had even finished our first courses. The clientele is the see and be seen type; expect a lot of loud talk about money and air kisses.
FOR MORE INFORMATION ON SAN ANTONIO CHECK OUT OUR BLOG:
SAN Antonio Not Austin.
DAY SEVENTEEN: SAN ANTONIO TEXAS TO AMARILLO TEXAS
Pit stop!
Sometimes you just have to “book it” and make some time and crossing Texas seems to be a good place to put the pedal to the metal as they say! Texas is certainly the best place to drive fast as the speed limit, even on two lane back roads, is 80mph! And those back roads aren’t as bad as out of Staters would have one believe. There is plenty of pretty country on the way from San Antonio to Amarillo. We took back roads mainly on this stretch and where it wasn’t pretty, we were still amazed by the hundreds of miles of windmill farms as far as the eye can see! Funny we never hear about this green energy in Texas.
Of Course, everyone has told us, we had to visit Austin, but since we couldn’t find a decent hotel room for less than a thousand dollars we decided to skip it. If we’re going to blow that kind of dough, it’s going to be at the George V in Paris or the Amandari in U Bali! Amarillo is sadly nothing to write home about and smells like the feedlots that surround it, but it is a good stopping point on the way to Santa Fe.
We can’t give much in the way of recommendations for lodging or eating. All the motels are pretty much the usual cookie cutter places. We did find a decent Mexican joint for dinner, and I guess the advice is look for a Mexican or Tex Mex place to eat when in this neck of the woods.
DAY EIGHTEEN: AMARILLO TEXAS TO SANTA FE NEW MEXICO
Now, the drive to Santa Fe from Amarillo is not only short (about five hours) but beautiful if you take the back roads which we highly recommend. For much of the drive you will see spectacular scenery from rugged cliffs to immense mesa country surrounded by majestic snow capped mountains. We took 40 to Tucumcari, a cute old town, then got on 104 to Las Vegas (not the famous one in Nevada) and then 84 to Santa Fe.
Checking in at the Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi.
WE STAYED AT THE ROSEWOOD INN OF THE ANASAZI
The town of Santa Fe is like no other in the U.S. One of the oldest, continually occupied settlements in the Americas, it is rich in culture and history. Even the crisp clear air, scented with the smoke of piñon wood informs one that this is a unique and very special place. The Inn of the Anasazi enjoys an admirable setting a few steps from the historic central plaza. As one would expect from the luxurious Rosewood chain, the rooms are lovely complete with kiva fireplaces and elegant touches like a classy cocktail cart. The hotel is dog friendly and our puppy was pampered with dog bowls and even a cozy dog bed (which of course he shunned). Since our first stay a tiny but well equipped gym has been added to the property, which is a welcome addition.
Sadly the service level that one should expect at these stratospheric prices, has fallen precipitously. Now we all know there is a staff shortage in the U.S. but we never encountered a manager in any of the public spaces and there has been no reduction of any prices to account for the low level of service. On our first night we waited almost an hour for cocktails at the hotel bar only to finally give up when we realized the single, surly bartender was just in over his head. Breakfast was equally slow paced and several menu items were no longer available, not exactly what we’ve come to expect from Rosewood.
Expect the clientele here to be very, very well dressed. Some folks were quite friendly, others haughty. The vibe overall seems more L.A. than Santa Fe.
WE ATE AT THE COYOTE CAFE AND CAKES CORNER CAFE
You may be thinking, wow, wasn’t THE COYOTE CAFE big in the 80s? And you’d be right. We ate there when it was young and hot and I can tell you the coked out manager who spent half the evening at our table made our night into a disaster. So, it was with trepidation that we returned on the recommendation of the front desk manager at the Rosewood. I’m happy to report that she didn’t lead us astray. Although the place was packed with spring breakers, our service was polished and very welcoming and food was some of the best that we had on our entire trip. Our only wish is that the cuisine of the south west be more emphasized as it was in the past.
For a quick and easy lunch, check out CAKES CORNER CAFE. This is a perfect casual place to relax after the museums and galleries. Order at the counter from the outgoing staff and find a place on the sunny patio. The coffee is pretty good here too!
FOR MORE INFORMATION ON SANTA FE, CHECK OUT OUR BLOG:
Santa Fe: A Town Like No Other
DAY TWENTY SANTA FE NEW MEXICO TO LAS CRUCES
Leaving Santa Fe on 25 we headed south. One really has a feel of the topography as one gently descends from the high country. This is the center of chile production in the U.S. and generally there’s a lot of agriculture to be seen in the area. It’s also very dry as the south west endures an epic 1000 year drought. As we came to the exploding sprawl of Las Cruces, we wondered how sustainable this population growth actually could be! We stayed with friends here, but there are tons of the usual chain hotels in which to break your journey. Mexican food is king in this town and there are plenty of places to choose from. The most famous of these eateries is La Posta in the charming old part of town.
DAY TWENTY ONE: LAS CRUCES NEW MEXICO TO TUCSON ARIZONA VIA BISBEE
From La Cruces we headed west on 10 until we were able to exit on the back road of 80. This is Apache country and the desert and mountains are beautiful so once again it’s well worth getting off the interstate here.
We stopped in the old copper mining town of Bisbee set high in the craggy mountains. The town is slowly being revitalized as a Bohemian artist community and there are lots of grand old buildings that attest to the town’s glory days. Be sure to check out the Copper Queen Hotel, which has hosted the likes of John Wayne, Michelle Pfieffer, Julia Roberts, Linda Ronstadt, John McCaine and even The Jersey Lily. We suggest you do not stay there as the once elegant establishment has very obviously fallen on hard times. But the common rooms are well worth a walk through and if you don’t mind springs coming through the seat of your stool, the bar is a fun place for an afternoon beer. Walk the steep hills, to take in the atmospheric buildings and shops. And if you’ve never been to a Copper Mine this is the place to take a tour.
As we entered and then left Bisbee we saw the sad site of young teenagers from south of the border being rounded up. What may seem a theoretical problem in the news comes suddenly into focus when one encounters this disturbing reality. Well, this is why we wanted to cross America right; to see what’s really happening in our country.
WE STAYED AT HOTEL MCCOY AND THE ARIZONA INN
Don’t be an Ass, I just want to be friends.
On our first night in Tucson we stayed at the Hotel McCoy, which is essentially a mod revamped 1970’s motel near downtown and Interstate 10. The rooms are clean and trendy with lots of cute touches of whimsy. There is a nice pool, outdoor fire pits, a miniscule gym and an okay breakfast in the morning. Throughout Tucson there is a well maintained riding and walking path and this hotel sits nearby, so we had a great run along the river to downtown. This is a fun, relatively inexpensive place to stay for a night.
For the next couple of nights we stayed at the historic Arizona Inn which we had greatly enjoyed on a previous visit. The Inn has an enviable location in one of Tucson's most swanky neighborhoods in the center of this sprawling burg. The hotel which opened in 1930, has beautiful grounds, very comfortable rooms and a beautiful pool area. The gym is barely adequate but there are tennis courts, croquet and ping pong (for real!). In the afternoon, high tea is served in the beautiful lounge. The bar is large with a solarium feel to it.
The covid pandemic has sadly closed the lovely restaurant at this time. The staff shortage has also hit here and we encountered some unfortunate lapses in service. Here though, the mistakes were addressed. The clientele here is mature and monied, so if you’re under the age of sixty you’ll feel like a juvenile delinquent.
WE ATE AT BOCA TACOS Y TEQUILA, TITO AND PEP, FLORA’S MARKET RUN, CAFE A LA C’ART, AND EL CHARRO CAFE
Tucson has been chosen by Unesco as a Creative Center of Gastronomy. We agree that there are many food ways here that are unique to the Sonoran Desert. There is also a lot of youthful enthusiasm about food here, no doubt fueled by the very young demographics of the city.
Chef Maria Mazon is the owner of BOCA, a very lively place full of students noshing on tasty cheap tacos. The food is inventive and it’s a great place to enjoy the youthful vibe of the city.
TITO AND PEP is owned by Chef John Martinez and the decor is a fun eclectic mid century modern. The hip clientele looks like they are interested in living well. The menu is small (a good thing in our book), creative and well prepared. The service though, at least on our visit, was strangely mechanical and unfriendly. Hopefully this was just an aberration as we liked the food and the atmosphere.
FLORAS MARKET RUN is a place we just love. There is a high end market here, but what is really great is the cafe where you can enjoy outstanding, well prepared food at reasonable prices. We ate breakfast here twice and had them pack us lunch for the road. Everything including the service was top notch here.
After a morning of wandering the old part of Tucson, and visiting the excellent Tucson Museum of Art, stroll over to CAFE A LA C’ART, you won’t be disappointed. There is a charming patio and the food is well prepared with excellent ingredients. We thought the salads we’re especially outstanding!
EL CHARRO CAFE which opened in 1922 is the nation’s oldest continuously operating Mexican restaurant. They have the only license to to prepare carne seca in the city which is a specialty of Sonoran cooking and is done on the restaurant's roof! This is also the place where the Chimichanga was invented. But our favorite dish is the Cheese Crisp, another unique dish from the region. The service here is charming and the decor is warm and of the place (after all it’s set in a old adobe historic house). A few notes of warning though, EL CHARRO has expanded its holdings so don’t be confused with its other restaurant El CHARRO STEAK. It’s also good but is a more hip and trendy steak place, not the authentic original. Also be warned, EL CHARRO CAFE does not take reservations. We were almost turned away until our host asked to see the manager, even though we arrived for dinner at 8:00.
DAY TWENTY FOUR: TUCSON ARIZONA TO ESCONDIDO CALIFORNIA
Leaving The Old Pueblo was hard but the scenery as we skirted the border, first on 10 and then eight was great. On this route you pass through The Sonoran Desert National Monument. The desert surrounding this area is beautiful, but this area is truly the most spectacular part of the “green desert”. As you near San Diego the rock formations, that look like giants at the dawn of time threw them there, cover the impressive mountains. Since this was spring time, poppies were everywhere too, smartening up the hillsides. Happily for us, we have good friends that live in the beautiful town of Escondido, just north of San Diego. We spent a leisurely evening with them overlooking the gorgeous landscape and eating, what else but great Mexican food!
DAY TWENTY FIVE: ESCONDIDO CALIFORNIA TO PASO ROBLES CALIFORNIA
Our mission on leaving Escondido was to do all that we could to avoid the vast megalopolis that is the L.A. basin. To do this we took 15 north to “The” 215 ( as they say only in Southern California, and therefore we were able to avoid the worst congestion of the area. Was it a pretty drive? No. But does one get a sense of why California would be the sixth largest economy in the world if it were a sovereign nation? Yes! Emerging from this vast urban mass, we finally came to 101 and the beautiful Pacific Ocean! The drive north from this point on is pretty beautiful and definitely more relaxing than fighting the traffic on L.A.’s twelve lane freeways!
Paso Robles is an old fashioned California town complete with a beautiful central square and bandstand. There is history here in the buildings, there is a slow pace in the town and there is fantastic Rhône style wines to be tasted in the surrounding vineyards. The quotient of smarmy behavior here that you can encounter in Napa is refreshingly rare here. In our opinion this is California's best overall wine town.
WE STAYED AT THE PASO ROBLES INN
With a terrific location right on the square, The Paso Robles Inn is the bee’s knees! There are ostensibly fancier and certainly more expensive digs in this town, and we’ve stayed in most of them, but for overall quality and comfort, this place can’t be beat. The gardens here are calming and peaceful and there is a nice pool as well. Our room was large and well appointed with a fireplace, private outdoor patio and hot tub overlooking the grounds.
WE ATE AT BUONA TAVOLA
Actually we’ve eaten at this restaurant a number of times which is the creation of Chef Antonio Varia. The clean, cozy and modern dining room has a cute little bar and an open kitchen. The menu emphasizes pasta, but the meat and fish dishes are well prepared as well. The service here can seem a bit over rehearsed but generally pleasant and everyone in the room seems to be having a jolly time.
FOR MORE INFORMATION ON PASO ROBLES, READ OUR BLOG:
California’s Forgotten Wine Country
DAY TWENTY SIX PASO ROBLES CALIFORNIA TO CARMEL CALIFORNIA
From Paso Robles we took a drive through “The Pastures of Heaven” as they are known to the Big Sur Coast on 46. The vistas from the road are without a doubt some of the most beautiful in the world. When we reached the coast we headed north along the magnificent coastline on Highway 1. We stopped at the famed NEPENTHE where we couldn’t resist having the Ambrosia burger washed down with a bottle of champagne to celebrate a great journey. Leaving Nepenthe, we arrived at our home in Carmel where we lit a fire and contemplated an amazing trip!
Nothing like a run after a long drive.