Santa Fe; A Town Like No Other
From the north of Texas we crossed a lot of dreariness on the interstate, but as we got to New Mexico, we left the blandness and crossed the state on an empty back road. For an hour or two we never saw another car or much sign of humans except for the rough two lane road itself. The land was rugged and lovely and we climbed slowly higher and higher. About a hundred miles from Santa Fe we drove for a long spell on a high plateau. In the distance was a magnificent panorama of snow capped mountains. The almost dreamlike quality of the experience of driving without the usual hordes of traffic combined with the magnificence of the land about us made it clear we were truly visiting a special place.
On the way to Santa Fe!
Santa Fe is a city unlike any other in our country. It is the oldest city in the United States. It is set in spectacular mountains. It was for many centuries the most important stop on the Santa Fe (trade) Trail. It has a unique combination of Native American, Spanish and Anglo cultures that gives it a quality completely unlike other cities even in the south west. And because of all these qualities, it has long drawn some of the best artists in the nation and to live and paint here.
On the two times we have visited Santa Fe, we have found it almost overwhelming, as if one was being treated to a great banquet with course after course of rich and exquisite food. Or in plainer terms, there is a lot to see and do here and the quality of what one can see and do here is pretty exceptional.
As early as 1912, the residents of Santa Fe recognizing its unique style and culture, released a style preservation plan, one of the first in the nation. For this reason the town has retained its restrained indigenous architecture and not succumbed to the usual ugly sprawl that chokes most of America’s cities. The altitude and crisp fresh air scented with the smoke of the native piñon wood gives the place an air of the exotic.
You are just as likely to hear Spanish here as English and one is very aware of the strong presence and rich culture of indigenous people. There is also a rather large whiff of money and privilege here that is in stark contrast with the homeless who camp out in front of boutiques purveying haute couture. Although we have read that there is a large LGBTQ+ population in this town, they must all leave when we arrive. There are no gay bars in town although we felt perfectly welcome wherever we went.
WHERE TO STAY
THE ROSEWOOD INN OF THE ANASAZI
We have stayed twice at this very special place in the center of town. This is not a large splashy hotel, there is a small lobby, reading room, gym, bar and restaurant. The rooms are small but beautifully appointed, with a fireplace, lovely seating area and a sexy cocktail trolly. We were traveling with our dog and special bowls, mats and treats were already in our room upon arrival. Sadly the service level post covid has suffered significantly. On a high note the concierge/front desk person was helpful and answered all of our questions. Unfortunately service declined after this initial greeting. On our first night we waited over 45 minutes at the bar for drinks and were never served by the harassed bartender. Service at breakfast was also extremely slow. The tariff here is steep and the service level at this time does not live up to the price. The clientele is very well heeled, and perhaps would be happier in L.A.
A warm welcome for Avi
LA FONDA ON THE PLAZA
Records indicate that this hotel sits on land occupied by an Inn when the city was founded in 1607, making it the oldest hotel corner in America. La Fonda is a proud member of “Historic Hotels of America”, and the structure that greets guests today was built in 1922. The hand carved beams of the soaring cathedral ceiling, beautiful tiled floors and beautiful art posters of the lobby alone make this a great place to stay. The rooms are comfortable and well appointed with all the modern amenities. There is a pleasant spa and a well equipped fitness center as well as a bar and three on site restaurants. The clientele here is not the chic set as it is at the Rosewood and the feeling is much more bustling in the common rooms as it is a much larger establishment.
BISHOP’S LODGE
Just three miles outside of town, the newly renovated Bishop’s Lodge, part of the Auberge Resort collection, is another serious contender for the best place to stay in Santa Fe. The resort’s 100 rooms and stand alone casitas are dotted about 317 acres of spectacular land. There is a beautiful pool as well as an extensive, luxurious spa. The rooms are classy and beautifully appointed with fireplaces and local artwork. This is also definitely a great place to consider if you want more of a country rather than an urban experience. The clientele is well dressed and well fed. The staff is friendly and accommodating. This kind of luxury doesn’t come cheap!
EL REY COURT
For a little less posh and a lot less pricey of an experience consider the El Rey Court for your stay in Santa Fe. Built along the original Route 66, this place originally opened its doors in 1936. Although it’s still essentially a glorified, albeit very pretty, motel, it was thoroughly renovated in 2018 which introduced a hip and cool vibe to the rooms and a cool little bar called La Reina. Some of the larger rooms have kiva fireplaces and there is a nice pool in the outdoor season. The El Rey does not have a gym or spa but there are good fitness centers within an easy drive. The clientele is younger here and the vibe is more family oriented and hipster.
WHERE TO EAT
CAFE PASQUALE’S
Although they serve breakfast, lunch and dinner at this favorite among visitor pros and locals alike, we particularly enjoy the breakfast here. Set in a beautiful old adobe near the center of town, the atmosphere is fun and lively. The huevos rancheros with your choice of red or green chile sauces (we get both) are some of the best we’ve ever had. But no matter what you choose, we’re pretty sure you’ll enjoy this place!
THE COYOTE CAFE
This place was hot, hot, hot when we first ate here on our way to open our first restaurant, Arrows over thirty years ago. On that night, the host (who knew our former employer Chef Jeremiah Tower) sat down with us and in a coked out frenzy crossed out much of the menu, insisting that they were items we wouldn’t want to try. So, it was with a bit of trepidation that we returned to try it again this year. Although the south western emphasis of the menu has sadly been toned down, the food is delicious, beautifully presented and expertly prepared. Gone is the coke head host who was apparently long ago replaced with a charming and elegant maitre d’ hotel/head waiter. Some things just get better with age as they say.
THE COMPOUND
For an elegant dining experience, The Compound is at the top of everyone’s list. Subdued and serene this is an oasis of actual dining. Chef Owner for twenty years, Mark Kiffin won The James Beard Award for Best Chef in the Southwest in 2005. Mr. Kiffin partnered in 1990 with Mark Miller, founder of the, above mentioned, Coyote Cafe. The menu at the compound is Mediterranean inspired and there is a serious emphasis on a farm to table mission.
GERONIMO
This elegant restaurant takes its name, not from the Apache warrior, but from Geronimo Lopez, the original owner of the charming circa 1756 hacienda in which this restaurant is ensconced. For more than 25 years Geronimo has garnered accolades as one of the finest restaurants in the southwest. OpenTable named it one of the top 100 restaurants in America and it is the recipient of the covetedMobile Travel Guide 4 star Award. The menu created by Co-Chef/Owner, and executed by Chef Sllin Cruz, is eclectic and international. The cozy bar is a great place to start the evening and the decor is pleasantly minimal.
TUNE UP CAFE
For a fun alternative to all the elegant venues, try this joint. It’s crowded, and funky and the food is pretty tasty. There are some well prepared southwestern selections as well as great burgers and pizzas. The service is friendly and outgoing.
TOMASITA’S
Sometimes it seems you visit a place to revel in its food traditions, only to find menu after menu emphasizing international cuisine. Santa Fe sometimes feels like such a place, so thank goodness for Tomasita’s! Here you will find excellent Mexican/southwestern classics. Try their great enchiladas, flautist and sopapillas, you won’t leave hungry or broke. The atmosphere is basic the place is fun and the service is good.
NIGHTLIFE
Santa Fe has an older population than many other cities of its size, and consequently the nightlife here is not exactly sizzling. And, as we already mentioned there are no LGBTQ bars here. Despite this, there are a few places where folks of all persuasions and those that like to party into the wee hours can enjoy.
TONIC
This is a late night classy speakeasy with carefully prepared cocktails. It’s located downtown, just a short walk from the plaza, the decor is beautiful and they frequently have live jazz. Something we really appreciated was their creative list of mock-tails that other joints frequently don’t do.
THE MATADOR
For a grittier, more dive bar experience, check out The Matador. The drinks are strong, the music is loud but the place is overall pretty comfortable. This is a cash only joint, so bring real greenbacks.
DESERT DOGS
This place is pretty new and the vibe is young and fun. The bar is comfortable, low key and there is a great balcony overlooking San Francisco street. There is a lengthy selection of local beers and hard ciders. If you’re hungry, the tacos here are delicious. This place isn’t open after 11:00 but that’s late enough for most of Santa Fe!
El FAROL
For something a little different try El Farol, which puts on pretty authentic flamenco dance performances in their dinner theater, every Friday and Saturday. Dinner is a $60.00 prix fixe and then there is a $40.00 cover for the show. The menu emphasizes Spanish tapas and is pretty tasty. On a side note, happy hour is served in the bar from 3:00-5:00 daily and a selection of tapas is served then as well.
SANTA FE OPERA
During warmer months the Santa Fe Opera is a great time. The beautiful outdoor venue has amazing acoustics and the performances can be most impressive.
SOL SANTA FE and THE LENSIC PERFORMING ARTS CENTER
Each of these rather grand places are frequent stops for National and international touring acts including Bonnie Raitt, Lyle Lovett, Wilco, Public Enemy and Jimmy Cliff.
PLACES TO SEE AND THINGS TO DO
THE TOWN
Just walking around in the center of Santa Fe is amazing, and I’m not overusing that word! The plaza at the center of town is flanked by the Palace of the Governor, and under its walkway you will find native Americans selling their art and jewelry. There is frequent music or political activity in the plaza which gives it a terrific lively feeling. Wander the surrounding streets and you will encounter a multitude of high end shops and galleries as well as bookstores and just about everything you could desire!
CANYON ROAD
A few blocks from the plaza, you will come across the famed Canyon Road. Here you will find gallery after gallery of high end art and artist studios. A lot the art these days seems to have veered into the highly commercial and garish, but dotted amongst the flashy expensive crap one can still find some actual real galleries.
NEW MEXICO MUSEUM OF ART
Hands down, this is one of the most impressive places to visit in Santa Fe. Here you will not only find fine exhibitions of the artists that made this Pueblo famous, but also tremendous installations of contemporary artists from around the country. This is a “must visit” in our eyes!
MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY NATIVE ARTS
This museum, devoted to native artists and their work, is not only a great place to visit, it really helps one understand the world that the first Americans inhabit. The very political installations are fascinating and illuminating and the work of many of these talented artist is outstanding.
GEORGIA O'KEEFFE MUSEUM
Georgia O’Keeffe is perhaps the most influential and important member of the cadre of great artists that made Santa Fe famous as an artist colony in the early days of the last century. Therefore, a visit to the museum dedicated to her works is essential. Standing before her magnificent art is simply a moving experience.