New Orleans, Easy in the Big Easy
NOLA (New Orleans Louisiana)
While we can hardly claim to be experts on the City of New Orleans, over the years we’ve been lucky enough to be frequent visitors to this special place, and we’ve also seemed to have found some special places both on and off the beaten path! In today's generic America, that seems to be becoming one endless strip mall complete with homogenized culture, New Orleans has managed to retain and even enhance its unique ambiance from architecture to accent and everything in between. The city retains its gritty yet gilded feel and one often has the feeling that there are more stories here than entire regions elsewhere.
For visitors it is important to think carefully about where to stay and in what part of the city. The city is great for walking and biking by day, at night however it is safer to take an Uber. The epicenter of the tourist quarter is of course THE FRENCH QUARTER. Here you will find every tourist family from across America and abroad wandering with ice cream in hand. But you will also find some of the most famous restaurants, best galleries and the largest concentration of LGBTQ establishments here. In the adjacent WAREHOUSE DISTRICT you will find the best galleries and some of the hippest restaurants in the city. THE GARDEN DISTRICT with its amazing mansions, elegant restaurants and charming historic trolley is perfect for bike riding. DOWNTOWN has some good restaurants and hotels but is more for business.
WHERE TO STAY
As we indicate above, location, location, location is key! There are a ton of hotels in The Big Easy, from the high to the low but here are some of our favorites.
The Ritz Courtyard
As far as location is concerned (and pretty much else for that matter) this is our favorite place to stay in New Orleans. Its address on Canal street on the top corner of the Quarter, allows you to walk to all the areas described above. Because of hurricanes, the hotel has been lavishly restored in the last couple of years and the rooms are sumptuous. It’s worth splurging for the club floor as the service their is great and there’s always a bottle of good champagne ready! Also, be sure to book a room over the lovely courtyard, they are quieter! The gym here is huge and state of the art. And be sure to ask them to show you the side (secret entrance, sort of) to the quarter.
Now this place is hip and trendy! Set in the Warehouse District (well seems more like downtown to us, this is the newest and hottest place in town. A knockout amenity for this place is its rooftop pool club where you’ll find a selection of the best looking visitors and locals in New Orleans. The design of the hotel makes it feel really special and different. The rooms, though small, are beautifully appointed. Some people find the bathroom layout as part of the hallway, a bit quirky. But other than that, this is just plain a simple a fun place to stay and party!
At the end of canal street is the repurposed 1960s high rise that is now the Four Seasons. The lobby area is sleek and cool and the Chandelier Bar is a great place to start the evening with a glass of champagne and caviar service. This bar is definitely a see and be seen place for the locals and off the radar for the average tourist so we highly recommend it. Expect the usual slightly bland modern Four Seasons feel to the rooms. This being said, the rooms are very comfortable and have amazing views. The service we experienced here is still a bit rough (it is new), but with a little polishing it could really give the Ritz a run for its money!
A great new addition to the French Quarters sometimes “cansado” hotel is the brand new One 11. Actually it’s the first new hotel to open in the quarter in 50 years! The rooms are nicely appointed and there are some pretty cool suites. The rooftop bar is a great place to start or cap off the evening. The service at this 83 room hotels is pleasant, helpful and outgoing.
WHERE TO EAT
New Orleans proudly has one of the greatest food traditions in America. Traditionally the cuisine of the area has been divided into two broad categories; Creole, the elevated French cuisine brought by the early French settlers, and Cajun, a more rustic cuisine brought south from Canada after France was defeated by the British at Quebec. Of course there are other important influences such as the cuisine brought by the first Spanish colonialists and more importantly the indigenous traditions of the enslaved people brought from Africa. In the last several decades, due to the resurgence in “real” cooking throughout America, New Orleans has seen tremendous new energy in its culinary world and exciting new explanations of its traditions.
Today one can still experience the thrill of dining in some of Americas’ oldest and most celebrated restaurants, such as Antoine’s which opened in 1840, Galatoire’s, which opened in 1905, Brennan’s which has operated for over seven decades and Commander’s Palace which opened in 1880 and is still going strong! Some of these restaurants are still great and others are obviously riding on their past history, but all deserve a visit even if just for a drink for some.
Despite the difficulties for restaurants in the past several years, new restaurants with dynamic Chefs and forward thinking concepts continue to open in the city. In fact there seem to be so many choices, at times it’s hard to know where to go. To help with this dilemma we have our ideas listed below. Be aware that because of ongoing staff shortages, many places have more limited hours, so check out when places are open and book accordingly!
OLD GUARD PLACES
The first time Mark and I went to Galatoire’s, we were dressed appropriately as required by the establishment. As we made our way down Bourbon street, passed garishly dressed tourists, hoochie mamas and drunks, a man dressed in a suit and tie emerged, it seemed, from out of nowhere and ushered us into the famed establishment. From this gracious greeting and throughout the meal we experienced a beautifully orchestrated dining experience. The food is fresh and simply prepared old world Creole cuisine, the clientele is local and well healed and the atmosphere is classic.
In sad contrast to Galatoire’s, Antoines is decidedly riding off its laurels. While the dining rooms remain classic in look, a little extra scrubbing could do the place some good. The food no longer has the excitement that must once have that brought this immense establishment acclaim. The bar is dirty, the drinks poor, and the service indifferent. One can only pray that soon someone will breathe new life into this venerable institution. Until then, drop by, look at the memorabilia and eat and drink elsewhere!
Brennan’s, another of New Orlean’s giant, famed, classic restaurants opened in 1946. And this establishment seems to be trying hard to stay with the times. Nominated in 2022 as Outstanding Restaurant by the James Beard Foundation is no small sign of continued success. While the vast dining rooms probably won’t knock your socks off, they are comfortable. The menu is pleasant and the food well prepared and the service efficient.
Set in the charming Garden District, this a mammoth place opened in1893 and has been operated by the Brennan family since 1974. The kitchen has been helmed by a long list of renowned Chefs including T.V. Star, Emeril Lagasse, Paul Prudhomme, Jamie Shannon, Tory McPhail and now Meg Bickford. Chef Bickford prides herself on trying to source 90% of the restaurants’ products within a 100 mile radius. The dining rooms are splashy, the service honed, and the crowd is well dressed.
NEW GUARD PLACES
This place is hands down one of our favorite places to eat in New Orleans. There is no slacking off here! In 2014 Chef Ryan Prewitt won the James Beard Award for Best Chef in the South and the restaurant won Best New Restaurant! Now that’s quite an achievement. On a recent visit we found the food to be creative, beautifully prepared and the service friendly and energetic. The crowd is hip and eclectic and the place crackles with energy.
This bustling restaurant is set just inside the Warehouse district and is helmed by well known Louisiana Chef Nina Compton. The mission statement is a bit vague, as they declare they “don’t make food for everyone else, we make food for you.” Well, whomever they are making it for, it’s pretty darn tasty. The dining room is one of those that seems to have very few good tables and the atmosphere seems odd and dark. We asked to move from a grim back of the restaurant seat next to the wait station and we were politely moved. Our server was harried but fairly pleasant, especially after we ordered most things on the menu. This is a place where the food trumps everything else.
Mark at Le Chat Noir
This place is the opposite of Antoine’s, it’s a veritable baby. The menu, created by Chef Seth Temple is fun and different. We especially enjoyed the emphasis on beautifully prepared vegetables, something one rarely sees in most menus today. The Chef has a deft hand with meat and fish too and we especially enjoyed the chicken liver terrine. The room is sleek yet warmed by the open kitchen and the wine list is well chosen by the affable sommelier Kevin. Our service was efficient if not polished. This polish will hopefully come with time. No one was at the door when we arrived and no one was at the door to thank us or assist us when we left. The cooks, however, were at the front door smoking dope which is in our old fashioned minds, not a good look for an upscale restaurant.
This lively and fun Joint is just a great place to experience creative modern Cajun cuisine in a warm atmosphere. Here Chef Link and Co-Chef/Owner Stephen Stryjewski have created a very tasty locally sourced menu. Such items as Alligator with Chile aioli are fun to try as is the head cheese with pickles, salads are well made but the stand out is the daily cohon. Service here is friendly and professional. It’s a place you’ll want to go back to again and again.
OTHER GUARDS
One of our favorite things to do when in NOLA is to either ride the vintage trollies or our bikes through the lovely Garden District to The Camellia Grill. This place is really a landmark. The diner fare is delicious and hearty and if you walk to the back you’ll see the cooks creating their great pies. Sitting at the counter here, you will be served by incredibly friendly and efficient waiters in bow ties and white uniforms. You’ll even get a proper cloth napkin!
Yes, it’s a tourist place, but really no visit to this city would be complete without a visit to this famed place! People line up to try the confectioners sugar coated beignets that should be washed down with their chicory flavored coffee. If you don’t want to wait in line discreetly go to the front and slip a server a $20.00; you won’t wait long then!
French Truck Coffee
This small place in the quarter is dedicated to the art of preparing excellent coffee. Although it’s in The Quarter, it doesn’t have the feel of a tourist joint. We stop in every afternoon, when we’re in town.
NIGHTLIFE
No trip to The Crescent City would be complete without a visit to Hotel Monteleone’s Carousel Bar. This grand dame hotel has been continuously owned and operated by the Monteleone family since 1886 and has been the home of America’s glitterati, including Faulkner, Hemingway, Williams, Grisham, Rice and Capote, ever since. Truman Capote, claimed he was born there (he wasn’t) and no doubt sipped many a Sazerac at its famously rotating Carousel! This place is really a tourist scene nowadays, but still worth the wait to sit at the bar!
Chandelier Bar at the Four Seasons
The place to see and be seen right now is the chandelier bar at the Four Seasons. The chandelier overhead is pretty spectacular and the crowd is fun to watch and talk to. Order the caviar service and a bottle of bubbly, it’s a great way to start the evening!
New Orleans has traditionally been a very gay friendly city and there are places for every stripe in this town.
THE CAPTAIN LAFITTE IN EXILE which opened in 1933 is still a great place to hang out, have a great drink and actually talk to people. The outdoor area at GOOD FRIENDS, is perfect on a sultry New Orleans evening for quaffing and talking as well. For dancing, OZ is very popular as is BOURBON PUB AND PARADE. And, don’t forget for late night noshing, BETTY’S BAR AND BISTRO has great outdoor seating.
THINGS TO DO
Opened in 1912, this place is essentially a museum where all the items are for sale. The Jewelry alone is worth seeing as here you will see on sale pieces worn by the Duchess of Windsor, movie stars and more. On sale last time we visited, was a hunting set presented to Winston Churchill by his father for his 25th birthday! The price for these items is given upon request. This is a special institution and well worth a visit and perhaps a purchase!
WWII Museum
Churchill’s shotgun
Perhaps the most popular place for visitors, other than Bourbon street, is this museum! It is huge, comprehensive and well displayed. The exhibits take one step by step through the two theaters of the war and it would be hard not to be fascinated by what one learns here. For history buffs it’s simply a paradise. We talked to more than one local who visits on a regular basis as it’s that impressive and that vast!
There are galleries aplenty here and many of the highest quality. Happily many of the galleries promote and feature the many gifted local artists of the region and they are all clustered within easy walking distance of each other. Moreover the folks who run these galleries are friendly and happy to talk unlike some of their more jaded brethren in other cities.
Around the corner from the Hotel Monteleone in The Quarter, this gallery is home to the prodigy Nathan Myhrvold, whose cookbooks and spectacular photos of food are hard to explain and well worth seeing!
Nowadays when we all seem to shop more and more online, it’s hard to find a top notch men's store. Rubensteins has all the best in trendy mens casual and formal fashion with all the top Italian designers, but it also has more “reasonable” lines as well. The owners are actually always on site and happy to serve you a glass of wine or cup of coffee and help you find the best clothes for you. This is a place we always shop at when we are in town.
RENT BIKES
THE AMERICAN BICYCLE RENTAL COMPANY in The Quarter will be happy to rent you a sturdy bike and arm you with a helpful map. This is a great way to see and really get to know the city.
Avi & Clark
Ready for the next adventure!