Good Afternoon Vietnam! Eleven Days That Flew By
It’s not every time that you have an almost perfect experience in a country. Sometimes you spend a lot of time, effort and money to get to a place only to find it to be a “bumpy ride”. Sure there might be great things in one city or town but the next day you’re wondering why you thought “such and such” place would be so fun to visit! Well, we can tell you our recent ten days in Vietnam couldn’t have been more perfect. It was that sought after mix of great beaches, hotels, superb food, fascinating culture and great people. This is our story of our third visit to Vietnam and though we are hardly experts on the land, we think we’ve mapped out a pretty fantastic itinerary. Of course one could easily spend another month in the country visiting such fascinating destinations as Hoi An, famous for its exquisite lanterns and a Unesco World Heritage Site, Hue with its amazing ruins, Halong Bay and its fantastical landscape and the spectacular northern mountains of Ha Giang. But if you have just slightly more than a week, the itinerary we describe here is pretty close to perfect.
Fifty years after the end of the war Vietnam is a country of ever accelerating change unabashedly hurtling itself into the future. Every time we’ve had the opportunity to visit this fascinating land we’ve been stunned by the pace of rapid progress. One can almost feel the energy and the thrum of a country bursting with pride and enthusiasm
Recently, as we began our descent into the vast metropolis of Ho Chi Minh City the impact of this palmal race to modernize was clearly visible in the vast doughnut of smog that blanketed the view. Every once in a while you could get a glimpse of the Saigon River or of a towering skyscraper emerging out of the miasma. And then, there was the assault of the hyper busy and vast airport. But, somehow here it didn’t seem daunting; the frenetic pace is like a great shot of espresso that starts your heart racing with anticipation and excitement.
If you grew up during the “Vietnam” war as we call it and the “American” war as they call it, put your images of a war torn land aside. You will see more American flag seat covers here than you can even imagine. No longer is The U.S.A. seen as the “running dog capitalist aggressor” but a shimmering idea to be emulated. Just look at the demographics; most of the population of the country was born after the war and has little interest in it. What are they interested in, hidden coffee shops with a serious intellectual vibe, making money, slick new restaurants, making money, studying English, going to the latest hip pizza cafe with the Japanese Chef, wearing the latest international fashions and looking gorgeous, studying cartoon drawing, taking care of their parents, making money, taking selfies, getting married, enjoying great food and building a better life.
This is not to say that there is not a strong and growing interest in traditional culture. While we were there, shortly before Tet, it seemed that every high school student was dressing and taking pictures of themselves in traditional garb. And, as high rises pop up like mushrooms around the cities there is a palpable and growing awareness that much of the country's culture is under stress and needs to be preserved and nurtured. We were shown beautiful townhouses built by architects freshly returned from Paris in the !950’s that are being returned to their former stateliness and elegance. We stayed at new hotels that were built to emulate the sexy glamor of the 1920s and we saw pogodas and lakes built in the 1890s that are being carefully maintained and refurbished.
For the visitor, Vietnam is almost a perfect mix of culture, great food, scenery, fantastic places to stay and great beaches. You can steep yourself in history here, bar hop with the trendy, check out some of the most exciting restaurants in the world, see some pretty stunning scenery, relax on beaches, eat baguettes just baked and savor some pretty excellent coffee. Oh, and did we mention the Vietnamese people are pretty marvelous too! What more could a traveler want in a place to visit?
GETTING THERE AND OTHER PRACTICAL STUFF
Most major airlines fly to Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi and some fly into Danang. Once in Vietnam though the government doesn’t allow too much competition, so your choices consist of Vietnam Air and Vietjet. Neither airline is particularly good or bad and they will get you from A to B although they are both frequently late, Vietnam Air seems to like battering luggage and the scene at the gates can be a bit chaotic.
There is some fuzziness about whether you need or don’t need a Visa to visit the country, but a tourist visa is cheap ($50) and easy to obtain online.
The Vietnamese currency, called Dong, is one of those with an insanely high amount of 000’s (at this writing $100 U.S. traded at 2,587,001VND) but if you can’t figure the exchange fast enough in your head just slow down and use the calculator on your phone. Most often it’s usually cheaper than one expects. Grab is the dominant ride-hailing app in Vietnam and in South East Asia for that matter. It is easy to download the app and works well. This being said, we usually have a transfer with the hotel arranged ahead in each area; this makes for a more seamless and less anxiety ridden arrival. In rural areas like Phu Quoc have your hotel arrange a taxi to your destination and wait for you. It’s really not very expensive and it makes the experience of getting about much less stressful.
Cities in Vietnam are safe but as in all big cities there is crime, so use your head! We felt comfortable walking at night in every area that we visited.
We have always found that Vietnam is welcoming for LGBTQIA+ travelers. Same sex relationships are legal although same-sex marriage is not legally recognized in Vietnam. There are many LGBTQIA+ bars, clubs, hotels and cafes particularly in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. It is fair to recognize that public displays of affection between anyone are still frowned upon especially in rural areas.
DAYS ONE THROUGH FOUR ON THE ISLAND OF PHU QUOC
WE STAYED AT THE REGENT
After flying from Singapore to Saigon and then having the usual hassles of navigating a huge airport, customs and delayed flights, we arrived after dark at the modern and new Phu Quoc airport. Phu Quoc (pronounced like “foo cock”) is an island off the coast of Cambodia in the Gulf of Thailand. More than half the island is part of the Phu Quoc National Park which for many is the draw of the destination. The developed strip along the palm lined southwest coast presents a sad first impression though, with the usual trashy chop shops, abandoned construction sites and broad avenues. But, when one arrives at the Regent you enter a different world. We think it’s fair to say that you shouldn’t bother even thinking of staying anywhere else here as this hotel truly lives up to its designation by “Conde Nast Traveler” as the number one resort hotel in Asia. Yes, folks you read that correctly, and we were skeptical too, but over our four night stay we saw what they were talking about.
Once we arrived we really didn’t want to leave! Okay, in our defense for not getting out and repelling down shear cliffs, or renting motorbikes to ride around the island, we’d already been traveling non stop around the world for six weeks. When we walked into our spectacular “suite” ( more like a luxury apartment), saw the amazing pool area and the spectacular beach it was hard to get terribly motivated to do more than amble down to the beach!
And, did I mention our suite? Our veranda, which was more of an outdoor living room, looked out to the ocean and the swaying palms, the bedroom was beautifully trimmed with white marble and teak and thoughtful touches such as coffee table books and flowers were scattered throughout the space. The bar was gorgeous and incredibly well appointed with all sorts of special and complimentary treats and liqueurs.
Any hotel can find great designers and build on a beautiful site, but service is what determines a truly five star experience and the Regent staff consistently “knocked it out of the park”. After a mercifully brief check in, an associate escorts you to the room and explains everything about the resort. The service here goes consistently above and beyond the average. Even at the beach the attendants moved us twice, without our even asking, to nicer and more special areas of the beach. We were worried at first as requests for service etc. are via text, but we found that response for virtually everything was speedy and accurate. Due to our late night arrival we opted to eat from the room service menu on our veranda. It arrived swiftly and was elegantly and graciously presented.
The amenities here are impressive too. There is a huge and well equipped, rooftop, state of the art gym complete with a lap pool. And speaking of pools, the main pool area is huge and flanked with comfortable cabanas. Of course for us, we love the beach and there the cabanas and loungers are top notch. At night there is the sexy Fu Bar where creative and classic cocktails are stirred by an expert staff. In the morning Rice Kitchen was, we kid you not, a pretty impressive experience. To call it a buffet is almost laughable as the beautifully created venue seems to contain an acre of different “experiences”. There is the vast espresso bar (the Vietnamese love their coffee), a pastry shop, a charcuterie area, a vast dim sum cafe and of course an entire area where you can have your morning pho made to order! Not a bad way to start the day!
To say we would recommend the Regent is a complete understatement. Overall this was easily one of the best beach resort experiences we’ve ever had.
WE ATE AT
XIN CHAO
This terrific seafood restaurant strikes the balance of being upscale and still appealing to locals. As you enter this restaurant there are tanks filled with local, live seafood on one side and a busy open kitchen on the other. Straight ahead the view over the ocean from the floor to ceiling windows is spectacular. We gorged on morning glory, omelets, salads and a massive platter of local crabs. The service here is swift and friendly. When you conjure the perfect seafood restaurant in your mind, this place gets pretty close.
NAGE
Tucked amongst the honky strip of Phu Quoc’s tourist strip, this restaurant set in an elegant little townhouse, is the perfect antidote to the hustle and bustle of the seaside town. When you enter the intimate and casually modern space you feel as if you have been transported to Greece or Italy. On the third floor is a small deck that looks out onto the water. Be sure to reserve here, for as much as the interior rooms are pretty, the deck has all the “wow” factor. The food is seafood focused, refined but simple, the service is attentive if reserved and there is a good wine list.
DAYS FIVE AND SIX HO CHI MINH/SAIGON
The first time we visited Ho Chi Minh, more informally known as Saigon, we were both overwhelmed by memories; after all, almost every kid who grew up in America in the 1960’s and 70’s was impacted by the Vietnam war. Older friends were drafted and died in that conflict, our parents watched the sad story unfold each night on the news, our older siblings marched against it and its images are seared into our consciousness. So to suddenly be walking along the lovely tree lined streets of Saigon laid out by the French over one hundred years ago, to Admire the jewel box of an Opera House, to wander the vast colonial post office of Indochina and see the communist posters exhorting the people to do better hits one in the gut. Walking up to the Presidential Palace gates impacted us the most though, as who can ever forget the films of the North Vietnamese tanks crashing through them in the last hours of that tragic war.
In many ways nothing has changed here, you can still stroll by these landmarks and many more, but this is a city looking to the future now, not to the past. You can still have drinks at the rooftop bar of the REX HOTEL which was the haunt of U.S. officers during the war and the scene of the daily press briefings to foreign correspondents, or the “five o’clock follies”, as they were called. The name came from the absurd nature of the briefings, in which the U.S. and the South Vietnamese were always winning the war. Today the hotel’s lower level, though, is devoted to international luxury brands like Gucci and Ferragamo instead of The Abraham Lincoln Library and you’re more likely to find that the bar itself is filled with tour groups and Vietnamese families celebrating Tet rather than dashing war correspondents and top brass swilling martinis.
Dwarfing these landmarks of old are towering new skyscrapers. Citroens, Chevrolets and Deux-Chevaux’s have been replaced with Rolls Royce’s, Ferraris, a zillion motor scooters (although that’s a new story too) and the sleek, electric vehicle VinFast built in Vietnam. Everywhere you go you’ll encounter young people stylishly dressed out and about and looking cool. Since half of the population of Vietnam was born after the war, being an American seems to hold little importance.
THINGS TO SEE IN SAIGON
The center of Saigon, or District one as it is called, is easily walkable albeit the heat and humidity can be crushing, so be sure to take plenty of cafe breaks or just sit in one of the lovely downtown parks and watch the world of new Vietnam unspool around you.
Of course there are several “MUST SEES” in the center of Saigon and all are within walking distance of most major hotels. We’ve already mentioned the ornate, colonial style OPERA HOUSE, built in 1898 and restored in 1998. It hosts various “cultural entertainments”, so be sure to stop by the front gate to check availability. The SAIGON CENTRAL POST OFFICE is definitely worth a visit as well. The vast maps of Indochina and Cochin, the original woodwork, clocks and counters are all presided over by a huge portrait of Ho Chi Minh, hung after the reunification of the country obviously! For us, though a visit to INDEPENDENCE PALACE or as we knew at as kids, Diem’s Palace should be at the top of anyone’s list. The present structure was commissioned in 1962 by the notoriously corrupt President Diem after the old colonial palace was badly damaged in a bombing by dissident Republic of Vietnam Air Force pilots, and designed by Ngo Viet Thu, South Vietnam’s preeminent modern architect. Diem didn’t live to see its completion as he was assasinated in 1963, but the Palace was soon occupied by his General Thieu who remained in power and in residence there until he fled from the oncoming North Vietnamese in 1975. Visiting the palace brings a flood of memories as the public, private and even the command center remain virtually unchanged since Thieu departed. In addition to this there is a brilliantly curated exhibit of spectacular photography that intimately chronicles the war. BEN THANH MARKET is another interesting stop. It’s long past its heyday as a “real” central market, but it’s a great place to find souvenirs and get an introduction to old style Asian markets. The WAR REMNANTS MUSEUM for those that want more war history is another interesting stop, but it’s not a “walk through the daisies”, expect to be saddened and deeply moved
All of the sights mentioned above are in District One and are within walking distance of most tourist and high end hotels. While you’re strolling about be sure to check out the great new shops, galleries, coffee shops and cafes.
WE STAYED AT THE REVERIE
Now here’s a story of intrigue, corruption, greed and fast living! Now you’re wondering what this has to do with a hotel; we would be too. We chose the Reverie, set in the poshest part of district one in old Saigon as it seemed emblematic of the “new” Vietnam. It’s set in the towering “Time Square” complex and took years to build, employing a fleet of skilled Italian craftsmen. The result is over the top garish and fabulous all in one; think Las Vegas on steroids!
We wondered who in the world would want to create such a place and soon found out that the word on the street was that a shell company linked to Vietnam’s most celebrated and reviled women, the real estate and bank tycoon Trong My Lan, was the owner. In fact, as of this writing she has been sentenced to death for embezzling $44 billion dollars from her own bank over eleven years! At one point in 2019 she ordered her driver to withdraw 108 trillion Vietnamese Dong ( more than four billion U.S. dollars) and store it in the basement of her home. This much cash, even in the largest denominations of the currency would weigh over two tons!
All this drama aside, this is a great place to stay. The over the top lavish decor perfectly matches the verve and excitement of Saigon in the same way our robber barons and their fifth avenue New York mansions matched the feel of the Gilded Age. The view from our room over the Saigon River and much of the old city was spectacular. And the room itself was incredibly comfortable. The service here was as you would expect; warm, welcoming and professional. The concierge all went above and beyond to make our stay enjoyable. The breakfast served in the opulent dining room is top notch and again here, the staff was impeccable and gracious. There is a nicely appointed fitness center and a lavish spa at the hotel as well as a rooftop pool. In addition to this many of the best restaurants, sites and nightspots are within walking distance or a short “Grab” ride away
WE ATE AT
ANAN
Chosen by The Michelin Guide as one of 50 Best Restaurants in Asia, Anan (which means “eat eat”) certainly lives up to its reputation. The restaurant is not what one would envision a Michelin restaurant to be; it is not a hushed temple of gastronomy, but rather a hip and lively almost shophouse space, filled with a young and international clientele. On the upper floor there is a rooftop bar with stunning views of the city called Nhau Nhau (which cleverly enough means “drink drink”). The Chef-Owner Peter Curong Franklin, a Vietnamese American, has a stellar background cooking at some of our favorite restaurants including Alinea in Chicago and Nahm in Bangkok. His “ New Vietnamese Cuisine” as he calls it is clever, fun and delicious. This is one of those places that just seems to hit a home run at every turn; the place is energetic and trendy, the service is hospitable and well informed and the food is down right stellar.
THIEN COFFEE CULTURE
Okay, it’s not a restaurant, but we had to mention this place because, in a country awash with great coffee houses, this chain cafe stands out for its sophistication and style, not to mention its great coffee. Coffee here is not served in tacky disposable cups instead a shot of espresso is served on a beautiful wooden tray with ice water, milk and a sweet treat. And when we say served we mean by a waiter in a stylish uniform. Maybe Starbucks and Peet’s top executives should go on a field trip to Saigon and learn what a coffee house should really be like.
GIAY BAC
Down a small tidy lane near the flower market, Giay Bac serves delicious “make them yourself” roll ups Vietnamese style. A small stool is placed next to your table and covered with plates with rice galettes and then a series of delicious sausages, sautéed meats, ginger and various dipping sauces are placed on the table. The myriad of flavors produced are light, flavorful and incredibly satisfying. This is a local's place with no fancy decor, bar or service, so plan your evening accordingly.
TO KY
For a real walk on the wild side check out To Ky. Don’t expect to get your usual Banh mi sandwich here. This place is pretty unique even for Vietnam, as they specialize in wild game such as venison meatball stew and blood sausage with noodles. The place looks a bit rough and you will sit on tiny plastic stools on the sidewalk to eat, but oh, oh the food is out of this world.
DAYS SEVEN AND EIGHT DALAT
A quick flight from Saigon brings one to the other world of Vietnam; its mountains. Contrary to the popular conception, three quarters of Vietnam is mountainous and almost half is forested. When we saw this terrain it became very apparent why it was so hard to wage war here.
Dalat, established by the French colonial rulers of Cochinchina in the 1890’s, is a world apart from the teeming and sultry megalopolis of Saigon. Set over 4000 feet above sea level the topography here immediately reminded us of Carmel California with its towering pines and mountain vistas. Dalat is known as the City of Eternal Spring and it's certainly an apt name as the climate is cool and crisp and the region produces a myriad of spectacular crops including delicious avocados,strawberries and flowers. The town is centered around a man made lake built by the French, which is beautifully landscaped with gardens and dotted with upscale coffee shops and cafes. Set about this scene is a fascinating amalgam of nouveau-deco-colonial-French style meets alpine craftsman style villas and buildings. There is a lively market with amazing street food at every step adjacent to the lake and from there a very walkable town with pretty boutiques and restaurants, sprawls out into the hills.
THINGS TO SEE IN DALAT
Dalat is a popular resort destination for Vietnamese visitors, so there is no lack of things to do. For those that need action activities there are endless organized tours for zip lining, “canyoning”, hiking, bungee jumping, etc. etc. For us just exploring this charming town, its lakes and gardens were enough of an adventure. XUAN HUONG LAKE often referred to as “the soul of Dalat” is worth a walk around. There are tons of upscale coffee shops, sandwich kiosks and fancy restaurants along its edges to stop at. A short walk from the lake is the RAILWAY STATION, which looks like something out of a Wes Anderson movie. Designed and built by the French (of course) in 1938 it is actually a combination of the popular style of the time, Deco and the native Cao Nguyen communal house style. You can take a four mile ride on a vintage train from the station which is really a hoot. For history lovers, like us, it's an easy “grab” ride or a long walk from the center of town to the BAO DAI PALACE 3, built by the last monarch of Vietnam in 1938. The Bao Dai Emperor lost his throne in 1945, but this palace, one of three in Dalat, is well worth a visit. Left largely intact when the royal family left, it is a great look into a fascinating era. THE CENTRAL MARKET is a great place to spend some time just wandering about looking at the splendid produce, brilliant flower displays and kids taking selfies. It’s also a great place to stop at a series of cafes that line the area and sample the amazing food. There are tons more gardens, forests and lakes to be experienced in this area, of course, but just walking about TOWN is a great way to experience the pleasant lifestyle enjoyed by the denizens of the place. At every turn of the road you’ll encounter fascinating colonial architecture, pretty shops and busy cafes. In short, it's the perfect place to get lost!
WE STAYED AT THE ANA MANDARA VILLAS
The Ana Mandara, comprising seventeen French villas built in the 1920’s, surrounded by pine forest, vegetable and flower gardens and only a ten minute walk from the center of Dalat, is without a doubt the best place to stay in Dalat. Our suite comprised most of the second floor of one of these beautiful villas and came complete with terraces on all sides, a canopied bed, a sitting room with a fireplace and a romantic claw foot tub. You really feel as if you stepped back into a more gracious and elegant era. There is a pretty onsite restaurant here that serves decent food, a nice swimming pool and an adequate gym. If the place doesn’t have quite the polish of a five star resort and seems in places just a tad shabby, it more than makes up for it with its reasonable price and historic atmosphere.
WE ATE AT
DALAT MARKET
It’s hard to go wrong eating in the bustling Dalat Market. And unlike many Asian markets it is not set in a crowded, narrow street or in a huge covered building, which makes it a pleasant place to stroll and sample all sorts of food. Be sure to try the grilled corn on the cob, Vietnamese pizza, grilled chicken and chicken feet and the hot soy milk with green bean, or peanuts.
MI QUANG THANH
This is a real hole in the wall eatery, but the Mi Quang (turmeric noodle soup) is super tasty. The soup is served with pork belly, rice crackers, peanuts and of course the usual plethora of greens and herbs.
OLLIN COFFEE
In the early 2000’s farmers around Da Lat were encouraged to grow high quality Arabica coffee beans. Through much trial and trevail the growers in the area became proficient growing this variety and then began opening cafes to showcase their crop. Today The City of Perpetual Spring is replete with outstanding coffee shops including the famed La Viet. Ollin, overlooking the central lake, is a stylish alternative which is well worth a stop not only for the delicious coffee, but especially for its great people watching. If you want to know where the gorgeous young people, dressed in the latest expensive designer brands are hanging, look no further than Ollin!
DAYS NINE, TEN AND ELEVEN HANOI
We first visited Hanoi in 2002 and were fascinated with this charming city. We loved walking about the Hoan Kiem lake in the center of the old city and getting lost along the streets lined with elegant French buildings dating to the turn of the last century. The only mistake we made on that visit was to come a day before Tet or the Vietnamese New Year which shut down most of the city the next day. Happily we still had fun, but we learned from a Vietnamese Chef-colleague that one of the best times to visit the city is the week prior to Tet. His advice was spot on, as this is a festive time of year, with throngs of young kids dressed in traditional clothes posing for photos, husbands taking potted citrus trees on their scooters home to the family and the markets bustling with shoppers buying food for holiday dinners.
Hanoi has been the capital for various dynasties starting with the Ly dynasty in 1010 and it is now the capital of the Communist dynasty. It is a major cultural, educational and economic hub for the country. It also has a rich history of rivalry with Saigon which often outdoes it in population and GDP. This rivalry recently prompted the government to increase the perimeter of what is considered Hanoi so that its population count would match the southern cities! This silliness aside, the old French colonial core of the city is vibrant and lively and quite beautiful with elegant buildings and tree lined avenues. With the continued rise of mass tourism, Hanoi has not been spared some of the phenomenom’s ill effects. Twenty five years ago the narrow streets of the city were primarily clogged with scooters, today they are jammed with behemoth vehicles of the newly rich as well. But, happily this is no Barcelona and tourism has yet to overwhelm the charm of the city. One fascinating development that commenced shortly before our recent visit was a crackdown on the running of red lights. In the past, motorists rarely paid attention to them and the chaos was stunning. But with the new law, tens of thousands of motorbikes have been impounded and most people seem to have gotten the message and stop patiently at the signals!
THINGS TO SEE IN HANOI
We could spend days just walking about the area around HOAN KIEM LAKE. The lake is set like a gem in the center of the older part of the city. The lake itself provides calm and respite from the traffic packed into the old city streets. And oh what fun streets these are to walk. There are elegant old apartment buildings, temples and pretty cafes and shops at every turn. And, did we mention the people watching? Here you will find a fascinating swirl of the newly monied, young people on dates, backpackers from around the world, touts, cranky baristas, ladies who lunch, officers in resplendent uniforms, important cadres in massive Land rovers pissed to be stuck in traffic and people eating on tiny plastic chairs on the street. THE TEMPLE OF LITERATURE (which should really be called the Confucian Temple is well worth the visit and will whisk you back into the past; way back, as the structure was first built in1070, although it has been re-built, restored and added to over the centuries. It is important to note that it hosted the Imperial Academy, Vietnam's first national university from 1060 until 1779. The buildings and courtyards of this amazing place give one a fascinating insight into both the Imperial system of education as well as into the bureaucracy of Vietnam’s Empire for almost 1000 years. To have some insight in to more recent history, no visit to Hanoi would be complete without stopping by HO CHI MINH (the father of modern Communist Vietnam) MAUSOLEUM. Here you can see “Uncle Ho” lying in state and see the flag raising ceremony at 6:30 in the morning (too early for us) and the flag lowering at 9:00 p.m. is a great display of pomp.
SHOPPING GALLERIES IN HANOI
Okay, call it consumerism, or whatever you want, but the shopping and the art scene in Hanoi is amazing. First off, for whatever reason, perhaps the French influence, we think it’s fair to say that the Vietnamese excel as fine artists. No other South East Asian culture creates such truly excellent fine art. For serious art collectors a good first stop is THE GREEN PALM GALLERY which was founded in 1996 and features some of artists from the past and present. Within a one minute walk, you will find another outstanding place called the THANG LONG GALLERY. Here on multi levels you can see some of the best contemporary art in Vietnam. Although none of the art is cheap in these institutions, all of it is of the very highest quality and they have purveyed to a “who’s who” of the world's art collectors. For outstanding homeware items such as table top, lacquerware, bed linen, clothing and collectibles look no further than the stupendous TANMY DESIGN which is housed on five stylish stories. The items here are beautiful, beautifully made and indicative of the stylish ethos of the Vietnamese. For fun souvenirs we love COLLECTIVE MEMORY owned and operated by a lovely Hanoi native who is happy to talk about her town, its changes and its culture as you browse amongst her creative and fun keepsakes. Several more notable places are TONKIN CRAFTS, APRICOT GALLERY AND NAI GALLERY. And, no matter where you wander you will find trendy and enticing places happy to free you from your Vietnamese Dong; of course, everyone takes credit cards too!
WE STAYED AT THE CAPELLA (AND THE METROPOLE)
During our first visit to Hanoi we stayed at the legendary Hotel METROPOLE which was first opened in 1901 and to this day remains as one of the city’s preeminent hotels. Numerous heads of state including everyone from Bill Clinton to Fidel Castro and movie stars from Charlie Chaplin to Robert De Niro have stayed here. The elegant and meticulously restored grand dame commands a fine location in the center of the city and offers every amenity one expects in a five star hotel, including a gorgeous pool, fitness center and excellent dining options. We stayed in a romantic landmark room in the original wing of the hotel and loved both its comfort and romantic-historical ambiance.
Although we had fond memories of our stay at the Metropole, when we were planning our return, a new hotel across the street caught our eye. The CAPELLA was created by famous designer Bill Bensley and built from the ground up in the colonial style of the nearby opera house. The atmosphere is creative, lavish and wittily conceived. Each floor has a theme such as our floor which was “drama” appropriately enough, and each suite itself has a theme. Our jewel box “apartment” was lavish beyond lavish and had its own theme dedicated to one of the last Czar of Russia’s mistresses. The cleverness continues in the main bar which has a jazz age theme and where guests are treated each night to complimentary cocktails and vintage champagne. The dining room which feels as if it is an over the top cross between a fin de cicle Parisian bordello and a 1930’s luxury liner, is actually dedicated to the backstage of the opera and features tons of memorabilia and costumes from famous performances from the turn of the century. There is a luxurious indoor pool, a spa and a well equipped, if small fitness room. Upstairs there is a swinging rooftop bar and you can also sit Parisian style outside along the avenue and enjoy a coffee and a snack wall watching all the nouveau riche walk by in their finery and pull up in their Bently’s. Since this is not a large hotel the service is not only efficient and polished as you would expect, but also friendly, outgoing and seemingly genuine.
WE ATE AT
LUK LAK
Created by Chef Madame Binh after cooking for twenty five years at The Metropole Hotel, Luk Lak is the perfect place to unwind on a first night in Hanoi. The elegant modern Indochina style building is a short walk from The Capella, The Metropole and the Opera House. The decor is charming and comfortable and the staff is pleasant, efficient and well informed. Our table on a large open window overlooked the trees of the pretty avenue below and the Mercedes dealership. The food here though, makes the place. It is decidedly more detailed and layered than we would expect in such a “laid back” atmosphere. We loved our omelette with stir fried greens, the stuffed peppers and the Ballontine of Duck. Everything was made with skill and tasted fantastic!
PIZZA 4P’S
When you want to find the hip, young and trendy crowd in Hanoi, look no further than Pizza 4P’S. Set on a charming street in The French Quarter, you’ll find it is always busy, so plan ahead! founded in 2011 by former Japanese movie makers, Yosuke Masuko and Sanae Takasugi, their stated mission is to bring people happiness one slice at a time! Now, that's not a bad mission and it seems that a lot of people agree as their pizza empire has expanded throughout Asia. Expect to enjoy wildly creative pizza and good salads served in a moody, dark atmosphere by uber hip people. The crowd may be happy, but it’s hard to tell, since it’s difficult to look happy when you're being oh so cool!
CHA CA THANG LONG
When in Rome eat artichokes and brains, when in Hanoi it’s Cha Ca La Vong (Hanoi Fried Fish with Tumeric and Dill). There are a number of venerable restaurants in Hanoi that serve this “must try dish”, and Cha Ca Thang Long, set in a lovely courtyard French colonial building is a perfect place to sample it. Part of the fun of the dish is that it’s served tableside. Your waiter spoons out vermicelli noodles, fresh herbs, peanuts, fish sauce and the fish of course! To garnish dab some of the shrimp paste on that’s offered as a garnish. Although it’s not for the faint of heart, one can develop a taste for it.
MADAME HIEN RESTAURANT
Located just north of Hoan Kiem Lake, this restaurant was opened in 2008 by French Chef Didier Corolla as a homage to his Vietnamese grandmother. Set in yet another charming house built in 1928 and formerly housing the Spanish embassy, don’t be surprised that the clientele is composed almost completely by foreigners. Although this may be a bit off putting, we found that the delicious traditional Vietnamese food more than made up for the feeling of being in a bit of a tourist “gulch”.
CAT TOC
This uber hidden, uber hip coffee cafe in an area of former villas built in the 1940’s and 50’s is a fascinating place to hang out, watch the intellectual cool cats and sip some great coffee. The rooms of the villa complete with tiny fireplaces and balconies overlooking the neighborhood, are eclectically decorated with a plethora of musical instruments, records and musical memorabilia from the last century. This is what a coffee house should feel like; a place for relaxation, study, great discussion and perhaps starting a revolution.
And that’s that
We hope you enjoyed the description of our eleven day sojourn to Vietnam. By no means do we intend this as a comprehensive guide to the country. What we did intend was to provide our readers and friends with a snapshot of an almost perfect trip in a fascinating culture. We could go back again and again as there’s still so much to explore…and, maybe we will!