California’s Forgotten Wine Country: Paso Robles
I was lucky enough to grow up in one of the most beautiful places on earth, Carmel California, and over the years, my partner Mark and I have spent weeks and months touring this spectacular region. When friends and acquaintances tell us they are headed to California we always try to let them in on one of our favorite “secrets”: the wine region of Paso Robles. Frequently these folks will reply something like, “Well, we’re already planning to go to Napa or Sonoma,” and that’s usually the end of the discussion. It’s sad though, because as great as those two regions are, they’ve gotten a bit slick in the last few years. When one takes a journey to the lesser traveled Paso Robles area, one steps back to the more rustic California that I remember as a kid. Don’t get me wrong, there is enough of the “slick”, boutique hotels, hip restaurants and fabulous wineries, but you will also find yourself talking with the actual winemaker at the winery or shopping in an old fashioned general store. In Paso Robles the pace is slower, the people are more relaxed, you can leave your Ferragamo shoes at home and get out your old jeans. In short, this is a great place to kick back, relax and taste some stellar wine.
GETTING THERE AND PLACES TO STOP, STAY AND EAT AT ON THE WAY
We usually commence a long weekend trip from Carmel to Paso Robles by heading to the hometown of Steinbeck, Salinas. From there you can pick up Highway 101. Of course, if you are flying into San Francisco, you can also jump directly onto 101 and head south. From San Francisco to Salinas it’s about two hours in good traffic. If you have plenty of time, a quick stop in downtown Salinas and a visit to the Steinbeck Museum is well worth it. The museum is small but well put together with displays showing movies and other features from “East of Eden”, “Grapes of Wrath” and other of the author’s most famous works. If you're in the mood for good California “stick to your ribs'' food, try Michael’s Grill & Taqueria.
SALINAS AND PINNACLES NATIONAL PARK
From Salinas head south down the majestic agricultural valley that Steinbeck so loved. It’s easy to see how so much of the United State’s lettuce, berries, artichokes, Brussels sprouts and an abundance of other produce come from this region. Slowly, as the valley widens you will see signs for Pinnacles National Park. The park comprises the remains of an ancient volcanic field, with beautiful rock formations and caves. In our book, the Pinnacles are well worth a visit. It’s a great place to hike and the trails are well marked. If you don’t have the time to hike, this is still a great place just to stop, take in the rugged beauty and have a picnic.
HUNTER LIGGET, HEARST CASTLE-SAN SIMEON AND BIG SUR
From the Pinnacles, as one continues to head south, and about 150 miles south of San Francisco you will arrive at Fort Hunter Liggett. This massive military command post is the largest in the country; and, that country is magnificent! Some of the most majestic oak trees anywhere in the world can be found here in what is essentially forgotten, pristine, California. The beautiful and rustic mission San Antonio de Padua, on the grounds of the fort, is well worth seeing and gives one a sense of what a working mission, in the 1700s, would have actually looked like. There is a hotel here known as the Hacienda, which was built by William Randolph Hearst to house his workers while his home San Simeon was being built, but the real draw here year round, is the camping.
If this is as far south as you feel like going, and the road is not closed, you can cross through Hunter Ligget and over “The Pastures of Heaven '' as they are justifiably called, to the Pacific Coast Highway and head north back to Carmel. On the way back stop for dinner at the famed Nepenthe and try an Ambrosia burger or Lollie’s chicken. Be sure to make time to duck into Nepenthe’s store, which has a terrific collection of unique local jeweler’s work and other special collectibles. This journey, as I’ve described it so far, is possible to do in one day if you start very early in the morning.
If the road through Hunter Ligget is closed, continue down 101 for another half hour or so, until you reach the town of Paso Robles. You should still make a visit over to the coast, via route 46 to Cambria. In Cambria it is just a few miles north to the famed Heart Castle. As of this writing though, Highway One, north of the castle, is not passable. So, you can visit the estate and then retrace your route, to go back to Carmel and Big Sur, or head south for more adventure. You can access road conditions on the CalTrans website, but at this time they have not announced when Highway 1 will be reopened north of San Simeon.
PASO ROBLES
Set around a classic town square, complete with bandstand, Paso Robles is just downright charming. Visitors and locals of all stripes seem to mingle easily here and although there is definitely some upscale carriage trade, this burg still has a “farm town”, laid back and friendly feel. Locals will chat with you and are happy to give you the ”low-down” on insider spots. There are some fun eclectic shops and galleries but there are also places that still sell cowboy hats and boots and the sort of jeans worn on the range not in Range Rovers.
WHERE TO STAY IN PASO ROBLES
Champagne vending machine in the Hotel Piccolo lobby; “cin cin” !
On our most recent visit we stayed at the hippest new place in town, Hotel Piccolo. This 24 room boutique hotel is nestled in the heart of town and within walking distance to the fun restaurants, bars and shopping. Designed by local architects who were eminently aware of the local “feel”, it is nonetheless stylish and modern. But, what always makes a place special is the people who work there and in this the Piccolo succeeds in spades. Upon arrival, we were welcomed as if we were long-time, regular guests. A vending machine across from the desks dispenses bottles of champagne; now that’s a fun way to start the arrival process! All of our many questions were quickly answered and we were given a gold coin to access a bottle, from said vending machine. On the roof is Paso Robles' first and only rooftop bar. It’s a great place to start or for that matter end the evening.
Another favorite of ours is the Hotel Cheval which is also just off the town square. With just 16 rooms it has an even more intimate feel, but still allows the guests a great deal of privacy. The decor is elegant and comfortable with an old Spanish hacienda kind of vibe. There are fireplaces in the very comfortable rooms as well as fireplaces outside on the patios. The Pony Club bar is classy and relaxing; yet another great place to start or end an evening.
For a less pricey alternative to the above listed hostelries, check out the nineteen room Stables Inn. This “boutique motel” as the owners have dubbed it, is just three blocks from the central square. The rooms, though small, are clean, fresh and have a whimsical cowboy decor. The bathrooms are cramped, but adequate. The accommodations also sport free WiFi, a 43 inch flat screen T.V. and mini fridges. In the center of the motel’s courtyard, Adirondack chairs surround a fire pit, where many guests tend to gather at cocktail time swapping stories of the day's adventures. In the morning, coffee and pastries are served in the reception room; another nice amenity.
It may not be as chic and trendy as some of the above listed places, but it’s our favorite place to stay in town. Set right on the square, you get a lot of “bang for your buck” at this place. Originally built in 1889, the original grand hotel, sadly burnt down in 1940 and was replaced with a structure catering to the “motoring public”, also known as a motel. This being said, the newly renovated 1889 house rooms are pretty trendy and feature hip decor, soaking tubs and fireplaces. And, if you’re traveling with a pet, they have great big pet friendly rooms with outside patios and gas fireplaces.
WHERE TO EAT
Paso Robles is not Yountville. And, while you won’t find a French Laundry here, you will find young Chefs trying hard, in fun restaurants. Most of the good restaurants are located on, or a block or so off, the main square and easy walking distance from the above mentioned hotels.
All the locals rave about this place, and the first thing they usually mention is the creative cocktails! Obviously there can be a bit of “wine fatigue” that sets in when one actually lives in wine country. The cocktails here ARE really good, well crafted and actually arrive at your table quickly, which as we all know, is not always the case in craft cocktail joints. The atmosphere is warm, convivial and friendly and the wait staff knowledgeable and attentive. The open kitchen produces pleasant, if sometimes erratic food. Be sure to have the artichoke; they never taste this good on the East coast!
This special place is our favorite place for lunch. The food is creative, clean and delicious and the service is always pleasant and efficient. When you’ve got big wine tasting plans, it’s always great to have a well paced lunch! The central courtyard is set with pretty plants and is a welcome oasis on a hot day. Be sure to check this place out.
Opened in 1992, By Chef-Owner Antonia, a native of Northern Italy, Buona Tavola is an institution in town. The dining room is warm and convivial and always packed with a great mix of locals and visitors. The lengthy menu features a great deal of pasta that is well prepared.
The spectacular view from this wineries tasting room makes it well worth the visit, but the food is great as well. And, did we mention the wine? The Bordeaux blends that they produce here are sensational and well worth the hefty price tag! Order one of their charcuterie boards and a tasting flight and sit back to soak in the great California vibe!
We love coffee and we love this coffee house. Just one block off of the main square, this cafe sports great indoor and outdoor seating, great coffee and delicious breakfast items.
WINERIES
The Paso Robles wine region, although not as famous as some of its competitors up north, is one of the best in the world. The area has some of the most dramatic day to night swings in temperature and some of the most perfect soil conditions, ideal for planting Zinfandels, Petite Syrahs and Cabernets. With over a hundred wineries, the area has become best known for its Rhône style reds that are big, lucious and powerful. The countryside here is mainly unspoiled, quiet and beautiful, which makes driving to the area's vineyards a pleasure unto itself. You won't encounter the crowds of day trippers here, that you can in Napa and Sonoma and show enough interest and you very well might end up talking to the winemaker or the owner of the winery that you’re visiting.
Daou Family Estates
The brothers who founded this winery recently sold it for the staggering sum of a cool one billion dollars, but so far, the wine does not seem to have suffered. The property as we mentioned above, is spectacular and well worth the visit and the wine is so good you’ll forget how expensive it is!
For a complete reversal from the uber upscale vibe at Daou, check out the family run Dusi Vineyard. The Dusi’s originally moved to the area from northern Italy and founded their vineyard in the 1920s. They planted Zinfandel, which was virtually unknown in California at the time and as they say, the rest is history. Today, the founder's granddaughter Janell, continues the old world traditions on the 100-acre estate.
We love the wines from Turley and try to visit the winery every time we are in the area. Founded by Larry Turley, co-founder of Frog’s Leap, Larry apparently ”never met an “old vine vineyard” he didn’t like”, and we are thrilled with the results. The focus here is on Zinfandel and Petite Syrah and the wines are powerfully bold and elegantly refined.
Justin Baldwin began his first and justifiably famous vineyard, in Napa Valley in 1981. Thirteen years later with winemaker Scott Shirley, they began producing wine in Paso Robles. The focus here is on traditional Old World methods, such as small-barrel aging in French oak and hand harvesting combined with modern technology. The result, as most wine lovers know, is pretty spectacular. A visit to the winery wouldn’t be complete without dining at their gorgeous Michelin starred restaurant as well. Arrive hungry, thirsty and armed with your black AMX!
This winery was founded in 1989 by The Perrin and Hass families: the great winemaker’s of Chateau de Beaucastel and America’s most famous wine importers. A resume doesn’t get much better than this! The vineyard comprises 135 acres and is mainly dry farmed. Rootstock was brought from the Rhône Valley in France and the owners are proud of their commitment to biodiversity. No visit to this wine region would be complete without a visit to Tablas Creek.
Unpretentious and laid back, Peachy Canyon is a favorite stop for us. The winery has been ranked in the top 100 wines in the world by “The Wine Spectator”, and traditionally features Zinfandel as its grape of choice. But, the winery also produces some outstanding Bordeaux style blends based on Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc as showcased in their Para Siempre label. Be sure to try a bottle of their quirky Ms Behave a smooth multi-layered Malbec.
THAT MUST VISIT PLACE;
HEARST CASTLE
If you have an interest in history, art, movies, celebrity, fame, movies, politics or architecture, then a visit to William Randolph Hearst’s San Simeon ranch is a must. If you’ve been before and only been on the introductory tour, a second and a third into the inner regions of this vast estate are even more fascinating.
In 1919 William inherited a vast fortune in mining holdings, land and curiously “The San Francisco Examiner. One of those plots of land, along the remote center of the California coast, that eventually comprised 250,000 acres, became the site of one of the most staggering private residences in the world.
Hearst, who would become a legendary media mogul and art collector, hired California’s first female architect, Julia Morgan, to help him create this magical place on a hill. Over the next 28 years as the two worked on the creation, Hearst and his movie star mistress, Marion Davis, entertained the who’s who of Hollywood, letters and politics, including Winston Churchill, Calvin Coolidge, George Bernard Shaw and Charlie Chaplin, here in lavish splendor.
The home was never completed, but a visit to its 165 rooms and 123 acres of garden, gold encrusted indoor pool and Greek temple flanked outdoor pool, as well as one of the worlds best collections of ancient Greek poetry, will most likely leave you speechless.