Freedom! It’s the American ideal and the American dream. Nothing more easily seems to bring us closer to this vision of freedom than a good old fashioned road trip in the U.S. of A. Why is this, we ask ourselves? Well, first off there is the reality of other kinds of travel available today. Since we really don’t have much of a train system in this country, and what’s left of it isn't too “user friendly”, that’s pretty much out. So then there is the airplane. Airplane travel when I was a kid was pretty fun and glamorous, but today that’s a long gone chimera. There is nothing glamorous about the security checkpoint with its 3-1-1 bags and long lines. If you have all the “bells and whistles” like club access, that’s great, but nowadays they’re often full. Flying business or first class definitely helps make flying better, but it still “ain’t what it used to be”, when they were roasting filet and tossing Caesar salad “table side”. In short, flying is a hassle. Therein lies the beauty of a road trip: there are no schedules to meet, no security checkpoints, no need to pack a certain way or even to “travel light”. All those burdens disappear and oddly enough travel is about freedom again.

SOME ABC’s FOR THE ROAD TRIP

There are several things we’ve learned over the years traversing the highways and byways of this fair land of ours. Our first rule of thumb is don’t bite off more than you can chew. Like Doc Ricket’s outlook in Steinbeck’s “Cannery Row”, it’s about the journey, not just covering miles. Accordingly we try to plan drives that are from four to seven hours for each leg. More than that, the fun vanishes and the point of discovering new places is lost in white knuckle exhaustion!

Invest in a real road atlas. As we’ve all embraced technology, the paper map seems to have gone out the window, and that’s a shame. What we’ve discovered is that it’s hard to plot long adventures when you’re looking at the screen of your phone or even the car map. An atlas will give you the big picture and you’ll be able to see those back roads that even the latest travel app probably won’t show. With an atlas you are in control and you will plot the adventure.
Bring a cooler. It’s great on long hauls to have a cooler packed with provisions. We often stop and re-stock at local markets which in itself is fun. And if you get tired of making your own lunch and the cooler is emptied out, it can then become a dandy place to keep the booty you’ve acquired during your journey!
Bring a thermos and real cups. There are places in this country where you can’t walk ten feet without tripping over a great coffee place….and then again there are endless wasteland where, if there is coffee, it may be Dunkin (horror of horrors). So we try to make or acquire great coffee for our thermos in the morning at the hotel if it’s good or at a decent coffee joint. Then in the afternoon when that inevitable fade comes along, there is no need to panic.
Bring what you want to bring! This is one of the delicious things about road trips, within reason you don’t have to “travel light”. Just remember you do have to schlep your bags in and out of your hotels and inns most of the time. We try to keep things you might want once in a while during your trip, such as hiking boots, umbrellas and raincoats in a separate bag that one doesn’t need to bring in at each destination.
Great music is fun to have along for the ride. Nothing can augment spectacular scenery like your favorite tunes. One of our favorite memories on a recent road trip was heading west at sunset over the rolling coastal range of California with our music blaring: talk about transcendent!

OUR WEST COAST ROAD TRIP:
from Carmel and back in 11 days

We began our adventure from our west coast home of Carmel and drove as far north as the Washington artist colony of Laconner just north of Seattle and then wended our way home stopping at different towns and cities on the way. If you are interested in Carmel, see our story on it in our blog.

DAY ONE: CARMEL CALIFORNIA TO EUREKA CALIFORNIA

Okay, remember the point is to enjoy the journey or in other words, the journey is the trip. So, from Carmel we took coastal Highway 1 to just South of San Francisco, instead of the major freeways that connect to the Monterey Peninsula. After arriving in the uber crunchy town of Santa Cruz in about 45 minutes after departure, we truly hit the coast highway in all its empty beauty. Instead of being hemmed in bumper to bumper, as we would have been on 101, other cars were few and far between.

Just before reaching San Francisco, at Half Moon Bay we took 92 west to 280 and proceeded north through Golden Gate Park and across the famed bridge. Here we made a quick stop on the Marin Headlands to view the spectacular city across the bay. Heading north through Marin County, now on 101, we were happy we had made an early start to the day as commuter traffic in this center of “hipdom” and “beamers”, brah is heavy.

Our final destination on this day was the turn of the century redwood lumber capital of Eureka at the very north of the golden state. This town is a great stopping point, as once you get through the usual strip around the area, there is an actual old downtown with tons of Victorian charm and history.

WE STAYED AT: THE BEST WESTERN
Yes, you read correctly; come on, at least once on an authentic road trip you’ve got to stay at a motel, and this is a good one. The rooms here are clean and have everything you need, there’s a pretty good little gym and even a relaxing hot tub and pool area year round.

WE ATE AT: RESTAURANT 301
Located in the historic Carter House Inn, in the old part of downtown, this restaurant was an unexpected treat. Unexpected, first of all, because of its massive “Wine Spectator” Grand Award Winning wine list, something you don’t see too often. I was able to order a fantastic 1978 merlot by the glass which gives you an inkling of what a treat this list is. Our waiter that night was an efficient and oddly pleasant French version of John Cleves. The food was obviously local and nicely prepared. Unfortunately the dining room seems a bit like a hallway and there is not much in the way of atmosphere. We’d recommend taking a seat at the cozy bar if we were to stop by again. The accommodations at the hotel look pretty nice and this would be a good alternative if one wanted to eschew the motel experience!

DAY TWO: EUREKA TO PORTLAND

On our second day we headed north on Highway 101, which is essentially combined with Highway 1 at this point. The scenery along this stretch is pretty mind boggling with magnificent redwoods, one bigger than the next one, eliciting comments like; “OMG look at that one!” and other similar profound statements, at every bend in the road. Eventually we left the coast and headed east, viewing more incredible scenery of deep canyons, river rapids and more towering trees.

After an hour and a half or so of twisting roads, 199 collides with 5 at the sprawling “anywhere in the USA” town of Grand Rapids. But you know you’re in Oregon right away since self service gas stations are not allowed. It’s really a blast from the past to sit in your car and have an attendant pump the fuel for you. There are differences though: when I was a kid they used to check your oil, wash your windows and give you free treats like jam and coffee mugs. Oregon’s not quite that retro! Another way one knows they’re in Oregon is the pervasive rural poverty which is only partially hidden by the beautiful scenery. This is another reason for a road trip; you actually see people and the way they live.

We booked it north on 5 which surprisingly passes through pretty spectacular country of rolling hills and forest. Unfortunately we managed to hit Portland in guess what? Pouring rain and rush hour. This IS when G.P.S. really does come in handy, as our electronic lady guided us smoothly to our downtown redoubt; the Heathman Hotel.

WE STAYED AT: THE HEATHMAN HOTEL
The Heathman was an all around great experience. The place brims with hipness but the attitude is warm, welcoming and helpful. The doormen were efficient and friendly and the front desk folks were very welcoming and natural. Our room, a corner one was large, very comfortable and beautifully decorated. There is a well equipped small gym on the second floor complete with, wonder of wonders, windows! We missed the complimentary craft cocktails in the “living room” that evening, but I’m happy to report that the drinks at the hotel restaurant as well as the local oysters were great.

WE ATE AT: SOUTH PARK AND THE DAILY FEAST
South Park and numerous other restaurants that contribute to Portland’s “en fuego” restaurant scene, is just around the corner from the Heathman. The look of the place is large, comfortable and very American in a solid modern way. The menu was fun, and the service was warm and very efficient. In short a perfect place to end a long day

On the advice of the great folks at the Heathman, we headed to The Daily Feast for breakfast. This super comfortable classic diner opened just a few years back. The food is several notches above what one would expect in a diner, and it has a great locals feel.

DAY THREE AND FOUR: PORTLAND TO LA CONNER

Well, I’ll be honest, no matter how clever one thinks they are, we always have screw ups. Our screw up on this trip was leaving Portland too late in the morning to get past Seattle before “rush hour”. We learned quickly that Seattle has some of the worst traffic in the country and it’s only getting worse. For the last several years, 1000 people a week have been relocating to the greater Seattle area and the result is a mess. Traffic started backing up sixty miles south of the city and we were in a stop and go snarl until we were well north of town three and a half hours later. We finally pulled into the charming artist colony of Laconner around seven at night, tired and ready for a drink!

The artist colony of LaConner is a quaint, thriving and surrounded by some of the prettiest farm country in the nation. The first rate Museum of Northwest Art anchors the small shopping district which is replete with galleries, bookshops, brew pubs and coffee shops

WE STAYED AT: THE LA CONNER CHANNEL LODGE
Although cute, the town of LaConner does not have many fine lodging options. The LaConner Chanel Lodge is probably the best choice in town. The rooms that overlook the channel (oddly enough) are roomy and comfortable even if the decor has a very dated early 90s look and the lighting is dim to the point of annoyance. Nicer rooms sport gas jet fireplaces, large tubs and balconies overlooking the water. There is no fitness center but a run in the verdant farm country around the town is a great option.

WE ATE AT: COA MEXICAN EATERY & TEQUILERIA AND CALICO CUPBOARD
This casual place is a bit of a surprise in a tiny Washington hamlet, but I’m here to say that the food is pretty authentic and well prepared. This place handled our group which morphed from 10 to 12 to 14 with aplomb. The service is friendly and the place although simple has a fun vibe.

For breakfast the next morning we headed to where all the locals seemed to congregate the day before, The Calico Cupboard. This storefront operation sports large antique oak tables and ample portions. The service is fast and friendly. In short, it’s not a bad place to start the day!

DAY FIVE AND SIX LA CONNER TO SEATTLE

I grew up visiting family in Seattle and have always loved its setting on the water and mix of grittiness, brooding weather and sophistication. Seattle is a great walking city, a great food city and perhaps most importantly a great coffee city. We stayed at the recently renovated “Theodore” (formerly known as The Roosevelt) in the center of the downtown area and it made a great base for just about everything one wants to see.

GREAT THINGS TO DO IN SEATTLE

THE PIKE PLACE MARKET
Within an easy walk from our hotel was the famed Pike Place Market, and although it’s definitely part of the tourist circuit, it’s still worth a visit just to see the fishermen, and to hear them shout out when they throw the whole fish about! There are still really good (and seriously pricy) vegetable vendors mixed with a ton of local crafts for sale. If it’s a quiet weekday, you don’t even have to line up for the original Starbucks! On closer investigation there are some terrific retail operations including knife stores and a great map emporium.

THE SPACE NEEDLE
When I was two years old we went to the World’s Fair in Seattle. I have no memory of the trip with the exception of pushing my five year old friend around in the stroller my folks had rented for me. I do know that the Space Needle and the monorail were there: in fact from downtown the Monorail will take you directly to the Needle. Newly renovated, the Space Needle affords a spectacular view. Be sure to have your picture taken at the top, it’s kitschy but fun.

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THE CHIHULY GARDEN AND GLASS
Adjacent to the Space Needle is a spectacular installation of the master glass maker Chihuly’s work. The amazing garden setting and the sheer size of the installation is pretty breathtaking and by far the best example of one of his world wide installations that we’ve ever seen.

SEATTLE ART MUSEUM
A pleasant stroll from the market is the Seattle Art Museum. It is well worth the visit just to see the remarkable art of the region's native Americans. Like any world class museum it has a tremendous permanent collection and runs a calendar of special exhibits which we have found are well worth seeing.

PIONEER SQUARE
Another few blocks down the hill from the Art Museum takes one to the fascinating center of old Seattle: Pioneer Square. Founded in the 1850s, and built of wood on tidal flats bordering the Puget Sound, twenty five blocks of the center of the city burned in 1895. Building owners eager to capitalize on the economic boom of the time, quickly re-built on the old low muddy ground, heedless to the fact that the city planned to raise all of the sidewalks at least one story. The result was the covering of blocks of first floors. These first floors were largely forgotten until the late 1950s when there was a strong move to preserve this now seedy and decrepit area. And in 1970 the city council made the twenty blocks surrounding Pioneer Square an historic district which is now on the National Historic Register. Today you can tour the forgotten underground city and the area above ground is filled with a mix of great galleries, restaurants and the ubiquitous coffee shops. The buildings, re-built after the fire had to be constructed in brick and stone by law, and the result is a pleasing place to visit for those who love architecture.

If you’re into architectural gems, be sure to tour the Smith Tower just adjacent to Pioneer Square. Constructed in 1914 it was the first skyscraper in Seattle and the tallest building on the west coast for nearly half a century. The elaborate lobby area, complete with bronze Indian heads, is alone worth a stop.

WE STAYED AT: HOTEL THEODORE
This place is just too cool for school! The newly renovated Theodore, formerly the more stodgy Roosevelt, has a tremendous location in the heart of downtown, beautifully appointed rooms, a good gym and an excellent freestanding restaurant called Rider on site. It does not particularly excel in service. There is no concierge and the front desk staff seemed harassed and mechanical. The most cordial member of the staff was the doorman who went out of his way to find us maps and get umbrellas. This being said, our corner landmark room which is supposedly curated by a different designer quarterly, was very comfortable and sported a massive old style claw foot tub, a comfortable sitting area and fascinating photos on the wall, not to mention spectacular views of the city. Another nice touch was the complimentary bottle of wine, welcome note, and bath salts that greeted us upon arrival. The bottom line here is that it’s a great place to stay, just don’t expect a five star service level.

WE ATE AT: LOULAY KITCHEN, STATESIDE, IL CORVO, DOUGH ZONE, RIDER AND STORYVILLE COFFEE

LOULAY
Mark and I competed on season four of “Top Chefs Masters” with, among others, famed Seattle Chef, Thierry Rautureau. We lost, but became good friends with many of the competitors (sort of like the Boy Scouts) including Thierry. So, no visit to Seattle would be complete without a dinner at “the Chef in a hats” sexy and elegant Loulay. In these days of the ever more casual (and frequently this means sloppy) restaurant scene, Loulay with its two story dining room, romantic balconies and floor to ceiling glass looking out onto the city, is a refreshing antidote to this downhill slide. The food is Thierry’s fun interpretation of French cuisine and there is a great bar and wine list.

STATESIDE
It was just a few blocks from our hotel, but since it seemed as if a monsoon had hit us halfway to the restaurant, we arrived like drowned rats. If the weather had been forty degrees hotter we could have closed our eyes and felt like we were in Saigon! The decor here, with its palm tree wallpaper and “Indochine” feel is certainly a departure from the run of the mill, and the Vietnamese fusion cuisine is simply delicious. There is an excellent and reasonably priced wine list and our service that evening was friendly, knowledgeable and efficient. Next door, there is a slinky cocktail lounge which is a great way to start your evening at this venue

IL CORVO
Just up the block from the Smith Tower in Pioneer Square, Il Corvo is one of our favorite places for lunch in the city. The Chef owner, after doing the usual purveying to the general public in prior gigs, finally got fed up and decided to do and cook only what he wanted to do and cook. This is such a refreshing thought for any Chef! The result is some of the most marvelous pasta you’ll ever line up for. It’s a simple place, you order at the counter and when they run out of a dish they erase it from the chalkboard without excuses. If you're “down” with the fact that the Chef will NOT be catering to the public’s every nonsensical demand and will ONLY do what HE loves to do, then this no frills place is for you.

DOUGH ZONE
If you love dim sum, then you’ll love this place. The atmosphere is clean and modern and one orders by filling out the card placed on your table. Service is nothing to write home about, but the dumplings are expertly prepared and the cold dishes and salads are great.

RIDER
We’ve heard that dinner is great here, and if the delicious breakfast was indication, it must be true! The kitchen is open with a massive wood burning grill which gives the very designed dining room a warm and pleasant feel. The food is clean, creative, solid and very fresh. Our service was friendly, accommodating and efficient.

STORYVILLE COFFEE
In this paradise for coffee lovers. Storyville Coffee is our favorite. Unlike the major competitors, coffee is actually the focus here. Don’t expect to order a lemongrass-mocha frappuccino with two pumps , because at Storyville they just serve great coffee, expertly and carefully prepared. The feel of the place is clean and classy, no clutter of stale sandwiches, candy bars and retail stuff and the service is friendly and welcoming. Oh, and if you’re having your delicious coffee there, they’ll actually serve it to you in a proper cup and saucer; imagine that!

DAY SEVEN AND EIGHT SEATTLE TO MCMINNVILLE

As we were about to leave for Oregon’s famed wine area of the Willamette Valley and its center McMinnville. A friend of ours messaged us, saying that we had to visit the Air and Space Museum in McMinnville. Surprised, we wrote back, “You mean Seattle, don’t you?”, thinking there couldn’t possibly be an Air and Space Museum in a tiny little wine country town! She wrote back, No, I meant McMinnville, and not only is it there but the Spruce Goose is there and it’s one of the best museums for aero-fanatics in the country. A quick visit to Google confirmed this.

The above revelation only added to our excitement of visiting this area. The region, just about an hour southwest of Portland, and it’s center McMinville, has an old and thriving downtown that’s right out of “The Andy Griffith Show”. And as we drove to this center we passed signs pointing to the numerous, and some very famous wineries of the region. We also passed the (who would of thunk?) immense Air and Space Museum!

WE STAYED AT: THE ATTICUS HOTEL
This beautiful and charming newly built boutique hotel, right in the center of town “made our visit”. Here, from the very start, the service was exceptional. We were promptly greeted at the curb and escorted in and offered complimentary espresso or wine. We were also upgraded to a quiet and creatively appointed suite. Special touches in the room, like stacks of “curated” novels and walnuts and a cracker as well as hanging plants, give this trendy place a homey touch. A beautiful old fashioned book (hallelujah we didn’t have to access information on the TV!) explained the history and the features of the hotel. And it encouraged guests to consult their concierge in planning a perfect time in the region.

We took them up on this offer, and the concierge, after actually listening and understanding what we were interested in, planned a perfect two nights and a day for us. The hotel has an excellent restaurant where we had delicious breakfasts each morning and a rather less than cozy bar. If we had any minor complaint, it was that the fitness center was pretty meager, but this is something that could easily be fixed.

WE ATE AT: NICK’S ITALIAN CAFE, THE DUNDEE BISTRO AND THISTLE
A block from our hotel is probably the area's most beloved institution Nick’s, which opened its doors in 1977. It is also a recipient of the James Beard Classics award. But this is no red sauce Italian joint, although it does have a wood fired oven, it sports a sleek dining room that wouldn’t look out of place in the upper East Side. The wine list is good and the service professional and caring. But better than all this is the delicious food. Be sure not to miss the trippa, something we don’t often see on menus outside of Mexican cantinas. There is also a more casual back bar/dining room where the locals like to hang out.

THE DUNDEE BISTRO
Our trusty concierge at the Atticus, sent us to this comfortably appointed Mediterranean meets California meets Oregon wine country style restaurant for lunch, and she did not lead us astray. There is a spectacular wine list as one would expect but the food is plain delicious. A real standout was the local Oregon black truffle pizza which we devoured with gusto!

THISTLE
This quirky downtown semi hipster restaurant serves some pretty pleasant fare. There is a small cozy bar-lounge with the requisite “craft cocktails” and the daily menu is written on a chalkboard (not our favorite way to peruse a menu but such is life). Service on our visit was pleasant. The wine list is very impressive and full of unique choices and half bottles. When I stupidly left my hat behind and called the next morning the owner found it and graciously mailed it to me at no charge; something that would not happen in many establishments.

DAY NINE AND TEN; MCMINNVILLE TO ASHLAND

The folks at the Atticus Hotel sent us off jazzed up with their delicious espresso and a hearty goodbye, and we set off again this time to the famed town of Ashland. Famed for its Shakespeare Festival, it also sports a thriving downtown and a beautiful setting of parks and streams. There are tons of restaurants and shops and although the Shakespeare Festival was on temporary hiatus while we were there, the nearby art theater was showing all sorts of interesting films. And, the scene seems to be on fire, with a trendy cafe, brew pub and slick bar at every turn of the street.

WE STAYED AT: THE ASHLAND SPRINGS HOTEL
Built 1925, this Beaux arts-style high rise in the center of town is the perfect place to explore this great mini city. The hotel has a gracious old lobby and a tea of sorts on the mezzanine overlooking this grand entrance. Let’s get something straight, this is not a completely state of the art, totally remodeled hotel. The elevators, when they were working, were old and creaky and the check in experience is not exactly five star, but the rooms are comfortable, and afford great views of the mountains. Overall it’s a great place to stay and the price is definitely right!

WE ATE AT: ALCHEMY
In a town where everywhere you turn one stumbles over another eatery, Alchemy seems to be the favorite. Housed in a lovely inn on a side street, the beautiful and trendily decked out bar is worth a stop. We had planned to stop for a cocktail at said bar and then move on to check out more restaurants. But after settling into our comfortable bar stools and being waited on by super friendly and professional bartenders and perusing the menu, there was no moving us. As you would imagine there is a very impressive wine list,and the food was extremely fresh and carefully presented.

DAY ELEVEN: HOME TO CARMEL

Well, it happens on every trip, one reaches that point where you just want to get home to your own bed and coffee maker! And so we jumped on Highway 5 and bee lined it back. What a great Road Trip it was!

West Coast Roadtrip