When you start talking about traveling for fun to Toronto, many people look at you a bit cross eyed.  For many the city still has a stodgy reputation, the uptight English brother of the more wild and crazy French sister Montreal.  But this reputation is decidedly dated.  Today there are more cranes towering above the city than anywhere else in the Americas, with gleaming new towers seeming to pop like Day Lilies overnight.  Outside of Hollywood more movies are filmed here than in any other city in North America, and you know what that means; glamour.  Today, Toronto is Canada”s largest urban center and is booming with commerce, art and culture.

There is a palpable feel of youth and excitement in the streets here with attractive people everywhere, funky neighborhoods and gayborhoods, practically an independent coffee shop on every corner and sleek expensive cars clogging the streets.  Toronto also seems (at least to the visitor) to be a very livable city with lots of parks and a wonderful barrier island, minutes away by ferry, which is almost entirely devoted to recreation. Since the city has a population of great ethnic diversity as well as a prosperous economy, the food scene is pretty much on fire.  We have visited this city twice and both times we enjoyed a cavalcade of impressive restaurants.  And, for those of you that enjoy hotels, we're here to say take your pick from some of the best!

GETTING THERE

It might seem funny to point out, but we folks from the U.S. tend to forget that Canada is another country and not a separate state of the Union.  Therefore, you will have to pass through border control.  Global Entry will help you a lot on the way home but not into the country.  You can apply for Nexus, if you plan to visit Canada frequently and that will smooth entry both ways.  From Boston the flight we took on Air Canada took just over an hour, but with all the flight delays, going through customs, the drive into the city from the airport, transport “door to door” took most of the day.  Of course, you can drive to Canada but unless you have Nexus and Global Entry, waits on the border can be lengthy.  If you arrive by plane into Toronto, there is a flat rate of $65 Canadian dollars for taxi cabs to downtown.  The Taxi stand in front of the airport is well supplied with drivers and your fare can be paid with cash or credit card.  While in the city, Uber is widely available.

WHERE TO STAY

As we mentioned, this is a great hotel city, with just about every major luxury brand represented as well as some cool quirky boutique hotels available.  The nice thing about this is that because of all this competition, rates are relatively reasonable.  We have stayed at two hotels in Toronto and enjoyed them both.

THE ONE

Just northwest of the Entertainment District and within an easy walk or Uber to just about anything in the city, The One is nestled in an upscale neighborhood.  This top end brand prides itself in its approach to protecting and embracing the environment and the result here, after a 132 million dollar renovation of the former Thompson, is pretty nice.  The entrance, rooms, bar and lobby are all bedecked with hundreds of plants and soft natural colors.  Our corner room was soothing and cozy, flooded with light from the floor to ceiling windows overlooking the city and local park.  The bathroom, though small, was beautiful with Carrara marble, wood and glass tile.  The mini bar is one of the best we’ve seen with a great selection of wine, champagne and spirits.  The gym here is euphemistically called “The Field House” but despite this sort of nonsense and despite being in the basement, it’s huge and well equipped. There is a beautiful lobby bar creating amazing specialty cocktails and a rooftop bar and pool.  One drawback is that the pool area is small and the seating is inadequate.  Great quality bikes are offered by the hotel free of charge, and we spent an enjoyable day touring the city and barrier island on them.  A house car is also offered and we enjoyed it most days and nights we were there.  The service staff here is affable and friendly and frequently went out of their way to make us feel comfortable.  When we asked for a late check out, the manager immediately obliged, added time to our request and brought us new keys all without being asked: pretty impressive in our book!  The concierge desk was never manned, and although the front desk staff did its best to help us explore the city, this is a real demerit for a hotel of this caliber.

THE SHANGRI LA

Downtown, on Toronto’s most grand avenue sits the Shangri La, looking like a modern ocean liner with its prow facing the wide street below.  As one would expect from this luxury brand, the atmosphere is pure opulence.  Service here is elegant and polished and the concierge staff was exuberant, excited for us to discover the best the city had to offer and just fun.  The rooms here are Asian lux at its best with lavish bathrooms and spectacular views.  Another highlight of this hotel is the massive indoor pool that looks out over the street below and is lined with cabanas which the attendants immediately outfit for you when you arrive with drinks, towels and cushions.  There is also an excellent gym with steam rooms and a sauna.  One serious problem arose when the spa, which is apparently a separate entity within the hotel, tried to scam us.  Happily after bringing this to the attention of the assistant manager, the charges were completely reversed.  The bottom line here is if you want to really pamper yourself, The Shangri La just might be your ticket, that is if you don’t want a massage!

WHERE TO EAT

Toronto is a great food city.  The combination of a vibrant, diverse community combined with a booming economy has made for a tremendous restaurant scene.  You can hardly move in this town without stumbling over a great place to eat from humble trailers to swanky Chef driven temples of gastronomy.

GUILIETTA

It is rare for us to experience the “three legged stool” as we sometimes call it, where top notch, polished service meets outstanding food, meets a lovely atmosphere.  We are happy to report that the three legged stool is definitely present at this elegant yet modern restaurant.  Guilietta is the creation of 35 year old Chef Rob Rossi, who says he “used to cook with his mum all the time” and that his job doesn't feel like a job. It’s just part of my life”.  Rossi’s intent was to create a sleek Italian eatery and when he opened in 2018 he succeeded in spades.  We started our repast with a selection of outstanding “Spuntini '' including fried olives, zucchini fritters, tuna crudo and a perfectly prepared octopus sent from the kitchen. For our “Primi” we dove into lucious Agnolotti with Chanterelles and raviolis with mortadella and pistachio pesto.  For “Secondi '' we had stellar pork chops with green peppercorns (we assume from Kampot Cambodia) and a prawn dish served with sides of asparagus and carrots.  Again the kitchen graciously sent us two deserts, one a spectacularly presented blueberry soft serve and a torta nana.  The service was gracious, natural and expert.  The silverware was a pleasure to hold in your hand and the modern room was surprisingly luxurious and soothing.  Simply put, this place is a home run.  It’s also very popular, so make your reservations early.

POMPETTE

For our second night in town we chose this highly recommended lovely small restaurant in a quiet neighborhood.  Since it was a perfect night, the charming outdoor terrace was a pleasure where we were able to achieve “pompette” or a blissful state and were immersed in the pleasures of the senses.  The trio creators of the restaurant, Martine, Jonathan and Maxine are all trained in the French traditions and the well thought out menu reflects their passion.  The wine list is also a treat and we particularly enjoyed the selection of sparkling wines from France.  We started with excellent leeks in vinaigrette, oysters, and a beef tartare, followed by a delicious chicken and a lighter than air Lobster and pea Vol-Au-Vent, and a lucious Brillat Savarin finished off the repast.  Our service was gracious, efficient and friendly, a combination that seems to be increasingly rare in the U.S.

ADRAK

This elegant and refined Indian restaurant is considered by many to serve the best Indian food in Toronto.  The space is certainly sleek and stylish and the crowd is very well heeled and fun to watch.  The decor has a unique look of modern meets colonial with cane used to separate spaces and Goan style bar stools.   A stylish bar in the front is flanked by comfy banquettes.  Further on there is a small dining room that reminded us of old style New York chic.  The service here is prompt, old school with a delightful feeling of being in a good friend’s club.  The elegantly presented classic northern and central cuisine was simply delicious and the presentation was several cuts above the average.  Be sure to visit the restrooms as they are hidden speakeasy style in the front of the restaurant and pretty swanky too!

MIMI

I lived in Beijing and Taipei and Mark and I travel frequently to China, so we were excited to check out the sensation of Toronto, MiMi, a sexy pan Chinese restaurant.  This place is the brainchild of Chef David Schwartz and he has certainly created a fun place.  The room is moody and dark with blood red velvet banquets and black and white floral wallpaper, it almost feels more like a Las Vegas lounge than a serious restaurant, but serious it is.  As one writer put it, “If Dracula was from Kowloon he might dine here”.  The wait people sport old style bow ties giving the vibe a great retro feel as well.  The compact menu covers a few classics of Hunan, Sichuan, Guangdong and Shanxi provinces and all are well executed and well balanced.  There are some showstoppers such as the Hidden Crispy Chicken smothered in dried chilis and Sichuan peppercorns as well as Four Foot Belt Noodle that the waitress obligingly pulls up for photographs so that yet another guest can Instagram it.  Seasoning in the dishes was probably lighter than you would find in ChenDu say, with the Mapoudoufu being almost mild in taste but then some accommodations for the audience are probably well calculated here.  Obviously serving the delicious pork dumplings at the beginning of the dinner is another of these moves designed for western taste and notions as well as the serving of rice (not requested) and the absence of a soup on the menu.  Service here was friendly, natural, attentive and efficient.  The wine list is well thought out and we especially enjoyed a white from Lebanon.  There is also a creative cocktail list.  

THE ISLAND GREEK GRILL

If you find yourself on a bike touring Central Island, (which we highly recommend) a fun stop is The Island Greek Grill.  At this little outdoor joint they serve some rib sticking Gyros of lamb beef or chicken.  Be sure to order extra Thadziki and have the Greek Fries!  After a long bike ride there is nothing tastier than a good Gyro washed down with Molson Ale on tap!

MILDRED’S TEMPLE KITCHEN

If you're looking for a good place for brunch, this is probably one of the better places in town.  The decor is vast, contemporary and splashy and there is also an outdoor patio which was oddly closed on the beautiful day we visited.  The menu has most of the standard brunch options including a workman like Huevos Rancheros.  The biscuits are light and fluffy and there is a selection of great breakfast drinks.  Our server was pleasant and efficient.

ONE KITCHEN

Okay, so it was at our hotel, but it was pretty damn good!  This restaurant carries the same sustainable ethos that the One Hotel abides by and the plethora of plants in the dining room and around the outdoor seating make for a pleasant experience.  The menu here is well thought out and the presentations are beautiful.  We especially enjoyed the smoked salmon platter, the trio of Middle Eastern dips and the scrambled egg sandwich.  There is also a selection of creative N.A. Drinks.  Service here is very friendly and attentive.

COFFEE

This is a coffee town and everywhere you go you’ll find small independent dedicated coffee shops.  Don't expect to get a blueberry caramel Frappuccino in one of these joints, you’d probably be kicked out if you tried, but do expect to get top notch coffee made with care.  Our favorites were THOR, where the coffee almost tastes like velvet it is so smooth, CAFFE VERGNANO which serves it just as they do in Italy: strong, FAHRENHEIT,  a tiny place where you choose each cup from three types of beans and THE LIBRARY, where the barista makes each cup as if he were creating a masterpiece.

THINGS TO DO

Toronto is a big cosmopolitan city, with something, as they say, for everyone.  Below are a few of the places we enjoyed during our stays here.

GRAFFITI ALLEY

Some of the best art in town can be found in this stretch of brightly painted allies just below Queen Street West at Brant Street.  It’s a fun place to stroll with a great cappuccino from nearby Fahrenheit Coffee.

SHOPPING OFF QUEEN STREET WEST ON OSSINGTON STREET

Along this stretch of Ossington, you will find a plethora of great independent stores, galleries, bakeries, cafes, bars and restaurants.

SHOPPING ON WEST QUEEN STREET

This street also known as Queer Street West, for obvious reasons is lined with more interesting shops such as FABLE,  an elegant table top store and LAURIE FLEMING FINE JEWELLERY, which purveys delicate hand crafted jewelry.  Be sure to stop and have a coffee at THE LIBRARY and watch the eclectic crowd go by!

SHOPPING ON BLOOR STREET

If you are looking for top end designer brands such as Louis Vuitton and Gucci, look no further than elegant Bloor Street just north of Queens Park.  For us the draw here was EATALY, the wonderful department store of Italian comestibles.  Here you will find great Italian pasta,wine, coffee, kitchen items, and groceries presented in a stylish space.

ST. LAWRENCE MARKET

One of the great city markets, this is a really fun place to visit.  Comprising three buildings, the South Market which features over 120 vendors of food and produce, The North Market where a farmer’s market has been held every Saturday since 1803 and St. Laurence hall which houses retail spaces.  The place is a bit touristy these days, but still fun to walk around and a good place to stop for a bite to eat as the locals still do.

ROYAL ONTARIO MUSEUM

When the culture vulture in you needs feeding head at once to this tremendous museum.  Founded in 1914 the museum is one of the top ten cultural institutions in North America and is home to a world class collection of thirteen million artworks.  There are frequently outstanding special exhibits here so be sure to check their calendar.

THE TORONTO ISLANDS

These barrier islands just in front of the old center of Toronto are a “must visit”.  We rode our bikes to the Jack Layton Ferry Terminal where we took a short and beautiful voyage to the islands.  There one can ride for hours through the charming residential areas, beaches and gorgeous parks,  there are plenty of places to stop for a snack or picnic and it's a nice breather from the intensity of the city.

KENSINGTON FOOD MARKET

Bordered by Little Italy and Chinatown which are both worth a stroll through, is the famous Kensington Market which boasts a ton of culinary delights.  The multiculturalism of the city is reflected in the variety of cuisine which includes everything from Jamaican jerk and empanadas to good old fashioned Canadian comfort food.

LGBTQ TORONTO

Toronto is home to Canada’s largest gay communities living in multiple parts of the city.  Canada has long had some of the most enlightened laws in the world and a history of protecting LGBTQ rights.  The city is tremendously diverse and multicultural as we have already noted and it is very welcoming to gay people.  The biggest draw for most gay people is the CHURCH WELLESLY GAY VILLAGE with its epic nightlife.  Fans of “Queer As Folk” the LGBTQ television show will recognize the setting as it was filmed here!  It’s also fun to check out the edgy QUEER WEST VILLAGE which is filled with happening cafes and almost post-gay hipster bars.

FUN THINGS IN GAY TORONTO

O'GRADY'S ON CHURCH

This is the perfect place for a cocktail or a lunch with friends in the heart of the gay village.

CAFE CALIFORNIA

Check out this casual watering hole in the heart of the village and enjoy a perfectly crafted martini 

FABARNAK

Owned by the 519 Community Center, this creative restaurant places an emphasis on local produce but more importantly it hires members of the community who might otherwise face significant barriers to employment.

HANLAN POINT

If you plan a jaunt to the Island on a hot summer day, take the Hanlan Street Ferry to Bay Street and then take the path to this little hidden, clothing optional beach.

OUT ON THE STREET

This is the only gay department store we know of anywhere and its worth a visit.  Check out the wide variety of cool clothing, pride jewelry and much more!

GLAD DAY BOOKSTORE

This is not only the oldest gay bookstore in Canada, opened in 1970, it is the oldest bookstore in Toronto.  It has some of the most extensive selection of gay titles in the world and it even has a bar, restaurant and believe it or not, a coffee shop.

GAY NIGHTLIFE

The majority of gay bars and clubs are concentrated in the CHURCH WELLESLY GAY VILLAGE

WOODY’S

This bar was the setting for most of the nightclub scenes in “Queer as Folk”, so you may already be acquainted with what it looks like.  This is a gigantic multi level place with five bars and great dancing.  

BOUTIQUE BAR

When you’re feeling like it’s time for a little elegance, check this upscale cocktail bar out.  Here you’ll find inventive and classic cocktails made by passionate bartenders.

CREWS AND TANGO

This is Toronto’s most popular drag bar in the heart of the gay village.  It’s always packed and popular and a great party destination.

WHAT WE THINK

Toronto is simply a great travel destination, exciting and growing with a diverse and interesting population.  There is something here for everyone as far as activities and culture and the food scene is far better than many cities in the U.S.  In addition to all this there is a terrific LBGTQ scene and tons of hotel options.  So, why wait?  Time to see Toronto!