These days it seems everyone’s talking about Austin; Austin this, Austin that.  So, when we were planning a trip across the U.S. through Texas we thought we had to go!  Then we started looking at hotel prices for our dates and found them to be in the stratosphere.  So, we changed our route and dates to no avail; same sky high prices.  For us, if we are going to pay mortgage prices for a night in a hotel we’d rather check into the George V in Paris than some repurposed motel in Austin!

Then it occurred to us to check out Austin’s often overlooked step sister just down the road; San Antonio.  I’m happy to report that this was one of the best decisions of our trip.  Not only did we find that there were a number of cool hotels at much more “reasonable” prices, but we had one of the very best hotel experiences on our trip staying at The Thompson!  But beyond this, we discovered that San Antonio is just a great place to visit.  The River Walk is a beautiful, immaculate place to walk and run, but more than this it is vibrant and emblematic of how a city can restore and revitalize its greater downtown area.  There are great market area like the Pearl District where you can find tons of folks enjoying music, bookstores, galleries and great restaurants.  There is amazing history here obviously as well as excellent museums and nightlife.  What more could one want?

WHERE TO STAY

THOMPSON SAN ANTONIO RIVERWALK
Towering along the Riverwalk, this hotel is a new favorite of ours.  What really makes the place outstanding is its wonderful people.  From the moment we arrived and the convivial valets greeted us, to the lovely desk staff, super helpful concierge, friendly and efficient restaurant staff to the affable bartenders at the rooftop bar everyone was great.  The rooms are comfortable and trendy, there is a well planned gym, it’s really dog friendly, there is a lower rooftop pool and the rooftop bar is one of the hottest tickets in town!

THE HOTEL EMMA
Set in what was once a 19th century brewery and smack dab in the center of the uber cool Pearl District, this is another perfect choice (albeit a very expensive one) for a hotel in San Antonio.  The retro chic decor of the hotel is warm and welcoming as is the friendly staff.  Although this area is chock full of eating and drinking establishments the hotels bar and restaurant are great as well.  There is a nice rooftop pool that is great for relaxing by, after a day about town, and the toney, upscale crowd here is fun to watch!

CANOPY BY HILTON
This sleek hotel is set in the very center of the Riverwalk, read most touristy, but though not for everyone, the location gives you great access to just about everything.  The outdoor spaces here are beautiful and the restaurant and bar are quite pleasant.  The rooms are super comfortable, well appointed and many have balconies which is fun.  When we were last at the hotel, there was construction next door.  Unless this is finished we’d opt for another hotel.

HOTEL HAVANNA
For those who like their comfort served with a dollop of boho chic, this is just the place.  Set in a Spanish revival mansion, built in 1914, the hotel has paired down upscale cool.  The staff is friendly and very helpful with lots of good suggestions for what’s happening in town.  The rooms are pleasant and comfortable with Smeg refrigerators that stock an impressive mini bar.  There is a fee for dogs of $25.00 per stay.  There is no gym here, but the location on the Riverwalk is perfect for running and walking.

PLACES TO EAT

LANDRACE
Even if you don’t stay at the Thompson, it’s worth checking out Landrac, created and operated by James Beard finalist Steve McHugh.  The dining room with an open kitchen is luxurious and spacious.  The menu celebrates regional ingredients and the drinks from the roving cocktail cart are a fun way to start the night.  One of the best parts of this place is that the service is both friendly and efficient.

LA GLORIA PEARL
Brought to us by acclaimed Chef Johnny Hernandez, celebrates the delicious street food of Mexico.  The menu has such diverse items as Tlayudas from Oaxaca, tacos Al pastor from Mexico City and cocteles de mariscos from Veracruz.  The outdoor setting along the riverbank is pleasant and lively and the service is super friendly and efficient.  

BRASSERIE MON CHOU CHOU
If you’ve had your fill of Mexican food, Tex Mex and steak, this place is potentially a place to try.  Set in the heart of the Pearl District, this brasserie is packed to the rafters with the well healed San Antonio folks showing off.  The room is pleasantly appointed if a bit uncomfortable.  The pricey menu is pretty predictable, nicely prepared French bistro standards such as escargot, salad Lyonnaise, duck confit and braised rabbit.  There is a roving Raclette cheese person who slices the melting cheese onto baguettes for a minor fortune, the nauseating smell of which fills the room.  Unfortunately for some reason, since we were seated at the later part of the evening, our food was slammed down on our table here with a frightening pace even to the point of bringing entrees before our first course had even been cleared.

BEST QUALITY DAUGHTER
Considering San Antonio is “deep in the heart of Texas”, Best Quality Daughter serves some nicely prepared Asian cuisine in a pretty pink bungalow. The Char Sui pork shoulder is perfectly roasted and the steamed buns that accompany it are delicious too.  The Hakka stuffed tofu is tasty and the potstickers are pretty decent.  The cozy bar is a great place to start an evening as well.

DOMINGO
Yes, it’s in a hotel, but the setting is lovely overlooking the River and the food is downright delicious.  The tuna tostadas with pickles and the ceviche are both delicious.  The service can be a bit slow but always friendly and the bar selections are a lot of fun.

NIGHTLIFE

San Antonio, it turns out, is a pretty diverse and very friendly town. In short there is something for everyone from sleek speakeasy’s and cocktail bars to cowboy dance dance clubs and everything in between.

THE MOON’S DAUGHTER
There are rooftop bars and rooftop bars, some are super snooty complete with arrogant service and lousy overpriced cocktails and then there are rooftop bars like The Moon’s Daughter. The view is of course great and the decor is comfortable and swanky. On top of this (no pun intended), the bartenders are, believe it or not, friendly and efficient!

1919
This is a serious (that is seriously fun) bar/speakeasy if there ever was one. Hidden down a flight of stairs in the Blue Star complex, you will find this impressive whisky bar where a group of expert and congenial bartenders are creating some to flight cocktails. The atmosphere is well, atmospheric, hip and sexy.

JAZZ TX
Now, this place is unique! Located in the basement of a former bottling plant, the vibe is cool speakeasy, the cocktails are excellent and when Doc Watkins, the star of the show takes the stage you’re going to be blown away by his virtuosity on the piano and great voice.

THE TOBIN CENTER
Not only is this center for the performing arts set in a gorgeous modern building, it has a 1,700 seat music hall and a 250 seat theater. A wide variety of top flight talent appears regularly here. From opera to comedy, there’s always something A list happening here.

LBGTQ NIGHTLIFE
There are tons of LGBTQ venues in this town and the vibe is relaxed and fun rather than edgy and dark. Put away your stereotype of this being a right wing religious town, it’s not. The thriving gay scene is mainly centered on Main Avenue which is known locally as The Strip.

BONHAM EXCHANGE
The original owner of this terrific dance club opened it in 1981. He had a dream to launch a place that was for San Antonio’s LGLBTQ community and he succeeded in spades. More than 30 years strong, this is a place loved by just about everyone. The Bonham is housed in a cool 120 year old historical building with three levels inside. Expect big crowds on the weekends having a great time dancing!

THE SA COUNTRY SALOON
If you came to Texas to meet a cowboy and do some square dancing, this is definitely the place! There is a live band onstage and a great parquet dance floor. Overlooking all the action is fun from the Louisiana style interior veranda too!

2015 PLACE
This cozy bar is a great joint to relax in. The atmosphere is cool and moodily lit and the vibe is neighborhood and fairly friendly. There’s a sunken dance floor and a nice outdoor patio too. This is the perfect setting for unwinding the evening.

KNOCKOUT
This is “the” gay sport bar, and it’s fitted out with no less than fifteen TVs tuned to every sports channel. If staring at TVs isn’t your thing, but talking to attractive people is, head to the huge outdoor terrace. There will be plenty to keep you occupied there!

THINGS TO DO AND SEE

THE ALAMO
Yes, we remember,  and you have to go!  From all of the above Riverwalk hotels it’s an enjoyable stroll and well worth seeing.  The plaza where the old church sits is a fascinating museum in itself but the self guided tour of the mission is also worth it.

SAN ANTONIO MUSEUM OF ART
This impressive museum, set in a restored, historic brewery has an excellent collection of paintings, sculpture  and photographs spanning 5000 years of history.  

BRISCOE WESTERN ART MUSEUM
To really understand San Antonio, and its place in history, a visit to this museum is essential.  The galleries here are impressive as is the sculpture garden.  Here you can come to realize why this city became a strategic crossroad of commerce and culture.

DOWNTOWN
Although today greater San Antonio sprawls outward almost thirty miles in all directions, its downtown is beautiful and replete with handsome buildings of every era. For those who enjoy architecture this is a real treat.

PEARL DISTRICT SAN ANTONIO
This beautifully restored area on the banks of the River, is a great place to spend an afternoon or an evening or both!  Here you will find the trendy Emma hotel set in an old brewery surrounded by some of the city's best shopping, restaurants, galleries, cafes, bars and food stalls; there’s even a good bookstore!  You can have dinner at the Culinary Institute of America or stock up on provisions at the weekend farmer’s market.  In short, this is a “must visit” in San Antonio!