Moosehead, The Other Part of Maine
When we ask people “from away” who plan to visit Maine, we often hear the same coastal itinerary planned: Kennebunkport or Ogunquit followed by Camden or Rockland and then, of course Acadia. And while all those places are amazing, we’re here to say there is a lot more to Maine than just its coast! Something else we’d like to mention is how few Mainers themselves visit the north and west of their own state. It’s time to get out of the rut, break the mold, change the tide, or whatever time worn phrase you want to employ and venture inland to the spectacularly beautiful lake country of Maine. Believe us, you won’t be disappointed.
Moosehead is the second largest lake in all of New England and stretches almost forty miles from top to bottom. We are confident that your first glimpse of this inland sea will blow you away. After driving through rolling hills and small towns, you will come to a crest from which one can see a vast panorama of lake and mountain as far as the eye can see, every bit as beautiful as anything the coast has to offer and another bonus, it’s not nearly as crowded. The crowd here is definitely different though than one encounters on the coast, this is the gateway to the wilderness of Maine where hunting and snowmobiling are very popular. People here tend to be more “down home”, so you're going to see plenty of mamas on four wheelers and lots of guys in camo, but you also see hikers, gay couples and rich folks with private islands. It’s an odd mix indeed but everyone seems to get along with a laid back “live and let live” attitude.
HOW TO GET THERE
From southern Maine it's about four hours to Moosehead Lake. Most people take Interstate 95 north to Interstate 295 through Portland. Interstate 295 will eventually rejoin 95 at Augusta and shortly after that you take exit 157 to Newport. After that you’ll be on state roads 11, 15 and 100 or The Moosehead Highway! Following the signs to Moosehead and Greenville is a cinch after this point.
WHERE TO STAY
BLAIR HILL INN
For the setting alone, this inn, with spectacular views over the lake, is well worth the stay. The inn is housed in a mansion built in 1891 and is certainly one of the most upscale places to stay in the region. A proud member of the Relais & Chateau group, the house sits on 79 acres and has ten beautifully appointed rooms. Happily there is a fitness center, a cozy bar and a fine restaurant as well.
Just across the road from the Blair Hill Inn, and enjoying the same magnificent view is this newly renovated lodge. There is a comfortable great room with a roaring fire in winter and a pleasant dining room. There are fun amenities too like a billiard table and outdoor fire pits. The rooms all have fireplaces and stunning views over the lake.
WHERE TO EAT
For some of the best food in Moosehead one has to retrace one's steps and head back the Moosehead highway to the town of Monson. Famed for its stone quarries, Monson had fallen on hard times until the well funded Libra foundation decided to turn the town around and make it an artists fellowship destination. To feed the artists in residence, the director of the Monson Arts, hired Marilou Ranta as the Chef. Happily “Lulu”, who hails from the Philippines, had one caveat, she wanted to be open to the public. Chef Ranta presents a delicious five course prix-fixe menu that changes regularly. The dining room is handsome and well appointed and the back porch has a charming view over a pond which is perfect on a warm summer day.
Even if you're not staying at the inn, dinner here is well worth it. This is a Relais & Chateau joint, so expect all the folderol and occasional fussiness that accompanies these properties, but the six course menu is tasty enough to ignore the nonsense. Arrive early for a drink and enjoy the stunning view as well!
This newly renovated establishment has an enviable setting overlooking Moosehead Lake in the “big town” of Greenville. Don’t expect any culinary fireworks here but for a decent lunch with a great view, the place can’t be beat. Our advice is to keep it simple here, order a hamburger, a local craft beer and sit back and enjoy the view.
If you’re looking for the place where all the locals hang out, look no further. Here you’ll find the local guys and hoochie mamas rubbing shoulders at the bar with the boat crowd and the millionaire type. The pub food is generous. Our advice here is again keep your choices from the extensive menu to the simple side, order a good cocktail and enjoy the crowd.
You definitely don’t go to this place for the food, but the atmosphere is out of control, real deal old school “Maine lodge”. There is a super cozy bar, a rustic living room strewn with books and board games and a rustic log cabin style dining room. Play it safe here too when ordering, relax and enjoy the old school Maine vibe! This is why you came to Moosehead.
WHAT TO DO
In the old days they called it “rusticating”, and that’s the best thing to do in Moosehead. Thousands of people come here in the winter to snowmobile, ice fish and sit by the fire. Others come to hunt and fish and while these things aren’t our “thing” we can still see the fun in them! On the other hand we love to hike, and this is a hiker’s paradise! One of our favorite hikes is MOUNT KINEO PARK. You can’t drive here as it’s an island in the middle of the lake, but it's easy to get to from the town of Rockwood via frequent shuttles. There is a great view from atop the mountain after you’ve scaled the 700 foot cliffs, but the easy walk around the island is fun too! For other great hikes check out DESTINATION MOOSEHEAD LAKE.COM
The town of GREENVILLE is definitely the jumping off point for visiting the region. There are some places not to be missed here! The amazing KAMP KAMP store founded by Randy Coulton is well worth a stop for anyone who loves the Adirondack look and just some great Maine kitsch! Across the street, be sure to stop in for an ice cream cone at the DAIRY BAR. From here it’s easy to take one of many cruises of the lake on the historic steamship KATAHDIN. If you want to get out on the lake and you’re not fortunate enough to have friends with a boat, check out WILSONS OF MOOSEHEAD, WILD ONES BOAT RENTALS, or if you want to just float about give them a call CAPT. ROGERS PONTOON RENTAL.
Over the past few years the Libra Foundation has poured more than $10 million dollars into the Town of Monson. The foundation bought up over thirty properties, opened the cool little MONSON GENERAL STORE and the upscale restaurant THE QUARRY. The foundation hired the former director of the Haystack Mountain School, Stuart Kestenbaum to create an artist in residency program called MONSON ARTS. The galleries there are well worth visiting, but be sure to check out when they are open.
WHAT WE THINK
We think that once you visit Moosehead Lake, you’ll be hooked and want to come back to the area again and again. In fact it’s something of a gateway drug for the region; soon you’ll be checking out MOOSLOOKMEGUNTIC LAKE, KINGFIELD AND BAXTER STATE PARK! More on those amazing destinations another time!