Hip and Hop Hartford
It seems as if we’ve driven by Hartford Connecticut a hundred times on our way to and from New York. The skyline always looked kind of cool but there seemed to be no reason to go to the city unless you happen to need insurance! Recently though, it dawned on us that Mark Twain, one of our favorite authors and Harriet Beecher Stowe, one of America’s most controversial authors, both had their homes in this easily overlooked city. Not only did they live there but they were next door neighbors, no doubt borrowing sugar at times. And, despite the ravages of the pandemic, both homes are beautifully maintained and hugely interesting to visit.
In the 1880’s when Mark Twain lived in Hartford, it was the most prosperous city in the nation on a high roller of publishing, manufacturing and insurance money. The area where Twain lived was a bucolic development specifically for the literati. Sadly, since then the city has faced a long trajectory of decline that follows the familiar American story of white flight after WWII, ill conceived highways and dismal corporate headquarters dehumanizing the center of the town. Today Hartford’s population is predominantly black and latino. But on our recent visit, despite its challenges, we found the city is well worth visiting. There is a stylish new boutique hotel in town as well as a number of fun places to eat. To us, this city seems to be taking a pause, and is perhaps on the cusp of reinventing itself. In the meantime, it’s well worth a visit just to stand in the home of The Master, Mark Twain.
GETTING THERE
From southern Maine, getting to Hartford takes just over two hours, that’s assuming you don’t run into bad traffic! It’s just a hip and a hop south on 95 south to 495 west to 90 west to 84 south. From the Boston area it's as simple as getting onto 84 west.
WE STAYED AT THE GOODWIN HOTEL
Smack dab in the center of downtown, set in a charming brick building originally constructed in 1881 and completely and extensively renovated in 2017, the Goodwin is easily the best place in town to stay. The rooms are stylish and comfortable if a bit stripped and there is a well equipped gym. The front desk staff was outgoing and helpful throughout our stay. It does seem that the Pandemic has taken its toll on the other amenities at the hotel as the bar and restaurant were closed during our stay. Happily there are plenty of dining and drinking options nearby.
WE ATE AT MAX DOWNTOWN AND THE PLACE 2BE
Okay, we hear you roll your eyes; yes it’s a chain, yes it’s a steakhouse, but sometimes you just feel like having, as Paul Drake and Perry Mason did frequently, a well prepared steak and an ice cold martini! Max succeeded in spades in satiating this craving and it was a one minute walk from our hotel; perfect for a night when you just feel like relaxing. The decor, if a tad generic does succeed in feeling warm and relaxing. The bartenders were efficient and did create a perfect martini and our server was friendly and knowledgeable. The menu is nicely thought out with a few twists outside of the normal steakhouse menus, the salads were tasty and immense and the steak was outstanding and reasonably priced. What more can you ask for in an evening
The Place 2Be is the future. This hip and mod brunch/lunch/coffee/lounge is a place where you order and pay on your phone, no doubt in response to the chronic labor shortage these days. Happily though, there is service and it is very friendly and attentive. The manager, an affable cool dude, made sure to stop by our table to make sure everything was to our liking, something one rarely encounters even in high end places. The menu is creative and fun and there is a great drinks list as well. Oh, and did we mention the atmosphere? The look of the room is industrial meets jungle lounge and somehow it succeeds in making a guest feel comfortable and intrigued. We hope they keep up the great work here, because it’s pretty impressive.
PLACES TO SEE AND THINGS TO DO
Downtown Hartford is a pretty sad and empty place. One can see that it long ago became a place for folks to come to work and then return to the suburbs. But in the wake of the pandemic, it has an almost Hitchcock feel to it; he could have filmed “Vertigo” on its empty streets. There is virtually no retail, but there are some pretty landmarks such as The Old State House and the new State House and there are some other interesting architectural “piles” dotted about the central core. But, there is one very good reason to visit Hartford, and that is to see The Mark Twain house.
THE MARK TWAIN HOUSE
Samuel Clemens or Mark Twain, his pen name, is without a doubt one of the greatest writers ever and certainly the founder of a Native American literature. His great masterpiece, written in this home, “Huckleberry Finn” is not a children's story, rather it is a stealth indictment and examination of racism in our country. The Clemmen’s family built and lived in this structure, which has been called “part steamboat, part medieval fortress and part cuckoo clock” from 1874 until 1892. These were according to the author, the most productive and happiest years of his life. The spectacular home, where Louis Tiffany labored for five years to create many of the interior details, has been painstakingly and beautifully restored. Our tour leader was fun and very knowledgeable. The beautiful new museum adjacent to the house has a great introduction display, movies, bookstore and galleries as well as a handy cafe. For anyone who is interested in this great man, The Gilded Age and American History, this is a must see site.
THE HARRIET BEECHER STOWE HOUSE
Just a few hundred yards from the Mark Twain House is the residence of none other than Harriet Beecher Stowe, the author of “Uncle Tom’s Cabin” a book that galvanized the Abolitionist movement and helped white American’s of the era to understand the evils of slavery. Although her book and her life remains controversial, the impact of her work can not in any way be dismissed. The Victorian Gothic structure built for the family in 1871 manages to effectively give one a peek into what sort of woman she was. The docents encourage visitors to discuss the impact of her life. Occasionally this attempt to foster discussion gets a bit preachy but the home is still well worth a visit.
WHAT WE THINK
Hartford is a town “most American”, it is a window into our past, its greatness, its potential and its ills. While we wouldn’t spend a week here, it is well worth a visit.