We love getaways to smaller cities, well, we love getaways to big cities too, but if one has limited time and wants to relax smaller cities can be easier to access, explore, and overall can be as rewarding.  Burlington Vermont is just the right temperature of porridge for us; not too cold and not too hot, just right.   There’s plenty to do and see, a beautiful dramatic setting, some good restaurants and bars, good shopping, decent hotels, great recreational areas and the opportunity to get out on the spectacular Lake Champlain.  And, for those of you from or visiting the greater Boston area it's a beautiful and reasonable drive.

GETTING THERE

From Maine we head south on Interstate 95 to highway 101 west to Interstate 93 north to Interstate 89 north.  Door to door, it takes about three and a half hours to get there.  For those coming from the Boston area, simply head north on Interstate 93 to Interstate 89.  You can also fly nonstop from Boston Logan Airport to Burlington.

WHERE TO STAY

One of the frustrating things about staying in smaller cities is often the lack of really top end accommodations.  Mid tier hotels seem to be the only thing hotel chains think they should build in these towns, despite the fact that it is obvious that many higher end clientele visit these charming cities.  There are a few adequate hotels in Burlington, but don’t expect an Aman or a Four Seasons. On the other hand, there is so much to do here that perhaps your accommodations aren’t as important as they might be elsewhere.

HILTON BURLINGTON LAKE CHAMPLAIN

Overlooking spectacular Lake Champlain and set within walking distance of just about everything you might want to do in downtown Burlington, this 60’s modern style hotel is a pretty nice place to spend a couple of nights.  The hotel has been “refreshed” in the last couple of years and although the bathrooms remain miniscule, the views are terrific.  There is a generic bar that is saved by the beautiful outdoor terrace overlooking the park and lake that comes complete with fire pits.  There is a well equipped gym on site and the staff is pleasant and friendly.

HILTON GARDEN INN BURLINGTON

Set in both a nicely restored Armory building and a modern new wing, this hotel is right in the center of town.  The rooms are exactly as you’d expect, very clean, comfortable beds, and a tad generic.  Our room had a bit of a view of the lake (certainly better than from the Hotel Vermont) that we hadn't even expected, which was a bonus.  And, the gym overlooking the Porte Cochre was well equipped.  The staff here is outgoing and friendly.  For a reasonable price in the high season, you really can’t go wrong here.

HOTEL VERMONT

Our first visit to Burlington was to celebrate a birthday, so we wanted to stay at what was purported to be the best place in town.  We reserved one of their special rooms with a soaking tub and a “partial lake view”.  Boy were we disappointed.  Although we had written ahead to say this was a celebratory weekend, nary a mention was made of congratulations.  We were greeted by a robotic desk agent who seemed like she couldn’t get us processed fast enough.   Our room was “modern” to the point of seeming stripped and dreary. We were reminded of the dorm rooms at U.C. Santa Cruz: pretty nice dorm rooms, but certainly not luxurious or super comfortable.  The “partial lake view” could only be obtained by twisting one’s neck while standing directly at the window.  The bartenders were slow, and surly and the space cramped.  In general the staff seemed harassed, indifferent and unfriendly.  The gym was unremarkable.  Every year we stay many months in hotels and few have ever been this disappointing.

WHERE TO EAT

HONEY ROAD

We’ve had the pleasure of traveling extensively throughout The Middle East and North Africa and the cuisine of this vast and fascinating region is one of our favorites.  At Honey Road, Owner Alison Gibson and Chef Cara Tobin have created a cool hip space and a fun and extremely well executed and presented menu.  This place is popular, but every guest seems to be treated as if they are valued.  Service is thoughtful, personable and the staff seems to really care about what they are doing.  For us this is easily the best place to eat in Burlington.

TRATTORIA DELIA

Some restaurants are hot for a few years and fade, others like Trattoria Delia, open now for twenty four years seem to evolve a patina of graciousness, consistency and quality.  The dining room has a cellar-like feel to it that is comfortable and cozy and the service here is attentive and natural.  The wine list, consisting of a deep selection of Italian wines is an oenophile's delight.  The menu is well thought out, with updated and perfectly cooked cuisine of the Italian tradition.  An evening here is simply a delight.

BISTRO DE MARGOT

Such good food, such a pleasant space, such a refreshingly adult environment, these are all phrases that come to mind when describing our dinner at Bistro De Margot.  The kitchen under the expert helm of Chef Herve Mahe, who has cooked with Chefs Dominique Boucher and Paul Haberlin from such “temples of gastronomy” as La Tour D’Argent and Auberge de L’ILL, produces delicious precision food.  The menu presents three courses with a few choices in each course.  There is a small but well chosen wine list, the room is relaxing and comfortable and the service is well trained and gracious.  This is another home run for Burlington.

THE GREAT NORTHERN

If you're looking for a place that’s big, fun and casual, look no further than The Great Northern.  This place has a contemporary Warehouse feel and food is robust and tasty.  Most people here seem to be ordering beer and cocktails, but there is an interesting wine list as well. Our server was efficient, knowledgeable and super friendly.  For a “laid back” night out this place is a pretty sure bet.

PASCOLO RISTORANTE

Another casual alternative is Pascolo Ristorante, which serves fairly standard if reliable renditions of Italian fare.  The pizza oven on the night we ate there was not operating so we can’t personally comment on this section of the menu, but we heard good reports on it from locals.  Service here was super friendly and outgoing, if a tad rough, tossing sauce and pasta onto our laps when serving.  We sat outside on the pedestrian only Church Street on a beautiful night, if only the many drunk and high street people of the city had not also been out, it could have almost been Sicily on a summer night.

THE SKINNY PANCAKE

Did someone say, great breakfast?  Yes, it was us.  The Skinny Pancake, otherwise known as a crepe, is just a great place.  There is a huge outdoor patio, where we always sit, as the interior is oddly gloomy, and the servers are always outgoing and friendly, but what really brings us back is the food.  The menu's focus is on crepes oddly enough and they serve a huge variety from savory options to the sweet.  Believe us, after brunch here you won’t be hungry and you will be happily satisfied.

HEN OF THE WOODS

We rarely talk about restaurants that we haven’t been to, but this place is often mentioned as one of the best spots in town.  So it's always been a disappointment to us that it has been closed when we were in town, until our last visit.  But then of course they had no reservation times available.  So thinking they might have some availability for walk-ins we stopped by in the afternoon.  The manager suggested that we return about 9:00 as they do indeed reserve 26 seats for walk-in guests.  When we arrived at 8:30, predictably there was no space, but they assured us that there would be in a half hour to forty five minutes and that they would text us when to come back.  We’re sad to say that we are still waiting.

BARS IN BURLINGTON

We aren’t experts in this area for this town but we can recommend two places downtown that we’ve been to and can vouch for.

THE GRYPHON

This super laid back bar set in a beautiful old building is a great place to start or end an evening.  There is a long bar and some comfortable couches as well as tables as they do serve some tasty comfort food.  We always seem to meet people here and have fun chats with interesting folk.  The staff here is efficient and friendly and the drinks are cheap!

RED SQUARE

Miracle of miracles, there is an LBGTQ joint in this town, and it's set in the center of the walking only center of town with a nice outdoor area for seating.  The vibe here as you would expect is pretty mellow but things get a little more frisky later in the evening.  There is a good bar menu and the drinks are well prepared.  There is often a live band playing here, but the music and lighting are always good and the staff is pretty friendly.

OUR FAVORITE SHOPPING

Downtown Burlington is one of the towns that actually has shops that seem to have disappeared from other towns, like good bookstores, men's clothing stores and excellent home and kitchen stores.  Here are three of our favorites.

MK CLOTHING

This is the real deal.  Since 1977 MK has been purveying top quality men’s fashion in this downtown store.  They carry great Italian, French and German sportswear at good prices.  The store had a great open and airy feel, which makes it pleasant for slowing down and taking some real time to pick out some beautiful clothes.  The owner and the staff here really make you feel at home, they are always there to help but also know when to let you have some “space”.  

PHOENIX BOOKS

It is so fun to actually come across an outstanding independent bookstore that features a wide selection of well chosen titles.  There are lots of mini reviews from the folks that work here that are helpful and fun.  There is a huge kids area which is great for buying gifts and the staff is friendly and helpful.

KISS THE COOK

This place is just an all around nice kitchen store with a good selection of just about everything one would need. If you happen to have knives to be sharpened they provide this service and they also sell a fair selection of these items.  The staff here is welcoming and helpful.

TWO THINGS WE LOVE TO DO IN THIS TOWN

If you like to do just about anything “outdoorsy” Burlington is an obvious jumping off place but these are two of the things we think are “must dos” in this town.

TAKE A WALK OR RUN ON THE LAKESIDE RECREATION PATH

 It's obvious that the city of Burlington has spent a lot of money and time creating this beautiful path that stretches for miles along Lake Champlain.  Along the way, there are plenty of places to sit and watch the world go by, beaches for all day relaxation, outdoor gyms for an addition to your aerobic workout and there is even a skateboard park if you're feeling inclined. There are always a lot of great people watching here as everyone is strolling, rollerblading, skating, running or just plain old walking. This is a great place to start or end the day.

GO FOR A CRUISE ON THE ETHAN ALLEN

And you thought Ethan Allen was a furniture store: surprise, remember your Revolutionary History, he was a dashing general who did his most heroic work in Vermont.  This terrific little cruise boat line, named in his honor, offers a range of cruises around the lake.  It’s a relaxing and informative way to see this spectacular lake.  Don't miss it!

WHAT WE THINK

For a fun getaway in New England, you really can’t go wrong visiting Burlington.  The drive here is beautiful and once you arrive there is so much to see and do.  You won’t be overwhelmed by a “big city” with not enough time to really delve in, and yet there is a ton to do and see here.  Check it out, you’ll be glad you did.